From two recent dinners

1995 Christoffel-berres Erdener Pralat Spatlese Riesling 8%
Mosel, germany

A glowing deep yellow with some amber, indicating age (early 2000s). Cumquat, honey, petroleum, camphor, smoke, high residual sugar, low alcohol. German for sure, Spatlese at least, perhaps Auslese? Palate is luxurious, and beautifully balanced. Revealed as older than my guess. It’s a magic site, and the label is charming.

Drink to 2030, 94 points

2021 Ch Suduiraut 14%
Sauterne, France

Vanilla, vitality, rich and pure botrytis. Apricot, citrus, quince, with some very attractive green notes in the mix. Palate is opulent, viscous – all quality here and sublime length. But young – 2017? Unveiled, it turns out even younger, already approachable without guilt, but a long life beckons. Very little was made due to a combination of frost and mildew – but this is brilliantly assembled. 100% semillon, 138 g/l rs.

Drink to 2045, 94 points

2004 Stanton and Killeen fortified 18.5%
Rutherglen, Victoria, 8 gold medals and 4 silvers
30% shiraz, 21% touriga, 19% Durif, 10 tinta cao, 10%tinta roriz, 10%tinta barocca

It seems I reviewed this wine in 2018. Tonight, the cork has done its duty;  the wine is densely coloured with just some trivial ruby bricking on the meniscus; it’s thriving with dark cherry, raspberry, blueberry and sweet spices; it’s soft, civilized, and balanced with a mix of sweet and savoury; talcy tannins, fine spirit and fruitcake spices now with plum and blackberry joining in – combining very satisfactorily. And there’s no rush.

Drink to 2034; 93 points

Just one from Clare

2016 Tim Adams Botrytis Riesling 11%
Clare Valley, South Australia (half bottle, screwcap)

I have a soft spot for Tim Adams, where the (dry) Rieslings, the Aberfeldy Shiraz (and other wines) were once household staples. Very well made, keenly priced and with a surprisingly broad range of museum wines at cellar door, what more could you want?

Light gold in colour, there is trademark botrytis “dustiness” plus varietal Riesling apple and pear, with bonus spice notes. The palate shows classic citrus (esp. mandarine) with a dollop of ripe peach and apricot. It’s clean crisp, lingering and completely delicious, with added concentrated textural interest.

Waiting, or holding hoping for botrytis is a fraught exercise (strong nerves and deep pockets are helpful). Reduced yields, fermentation and storage issues – then you merely need to sell it! I don’t understand why even the best examples struggle; maybe people think “what’s the catch” – it’s too expensive – or not expensive enough.  Or “what foods will it match”? But I have no trouble with fresh fruits or the simplest cakes for this style. It’s 87 g/l residual sugar – all absorbed by the acidity meaning it smells and tasted fresh. I’m sure younger vintages are available, and who wouldn’t enjoy this?

No hurry under screwcap, but it looks ready – drink to 2030 and 92 points.

Two less-common styles

NV Seppeltsfield Paramount aged dry apera DP 898 23.7%
Bottle 13-119, South Australia

100% Palomino, with an average age of 49 years, in a lavish package (500ml, and $550 ex-winery). Made by a solera system, and with neutral spirit.

Sherry (apera in Australia) was what our older winemakers grew up with; now it’s a style that few persist with – hard to make, and harder to sell.

A glowing amber/yellow colour with some green tints; and this is a “sherry” style – not bone dry, but rippling with seaspray, salinity, walnut, honey and vanilla; the palate is viscous and lively, with white peach and amaro herbs. Its warming, with effortless length and freshness. It’s a marvel that combines (extreme) aged material with freshness – a marvel of construction. This is a wine made to share, and not much is needed as the flavours dwell fantastically. Then you want to reward your senses again with a further sample.

Drink now, and 97 points.

2020 Pieropan Le Columbare Recioto di Soave Classico 13%
Garganega, Veneto, Italy 500ml

Air-dried grapes on mats, so they shrivel, and can develop botrytis, then pressed and aged in large oak barrels. Gold colour, with tropical aromas – banana, pineapple, guava, apple, raisins, camphor, wood spices and honey. It’s sweet (120 g/l residual) but refreshing and complex. Lots going on, with lots of wrong guesses with options questions! Outside my usual experience so its lifespan is a bit of a guess. Very pleased to have tasted this too.

Drink to 2030, 93 points

A Clare valley bargain

2022 Paulett Alison Botrytis Riesling 8.5%
Clare Valley (South Australia), 500 ml screwcap.

And a beauty. I paid a mere $25 for the bottle and am thrilled.
Cane cut- pale straw colour; pear, citrus, lime, ginger, purity, texture, and unlike most Oz sweeties, there is enough acidity to keep me happy, 150+ g/l residual sugar was my guess (web research says 161 g/l), and a complete bargain. Frisky, concentrated with some welcoming tropical fruit (guava, pineapple rind) and damn fine. A few proper trophies to its credit too. A great welcome back to Oz after five weeks in Europe (one week in Piedmont was my wine highlight).

Drink to 2032, 94 points

A surprise from Portugal

2001 Quinta do vale meao vintage port 19.5%
Portugal

The cork crumbled away, and my records didn’t tell me where or how much I paid (long ago, and probably not much) for this lone bottle. But it’s impressive. Very dense red/black colour; there’s a wonderful mix of violets, blueberries, red cherry, and some darker fruit notes. The palate has intensity, persistence and complexity. Red liquorice, cherry, blueberry, very fine chalky tannins – stylish and authentic. A producer to watch for the more widely declared years, as this one was a ripper. Likely to be terrific value too as it follows my rule of “hard to pronounce = better value”.

Drink to 2035, 93 points

Two sweet and one strong from Europe

2015 DV by Ch Doisy Vedrines
Sauternes (second label) and not a wine I have tried before.

Pale gold colour with green tints- cumquat, vanilla, pure, fresh; light peach and apple on the palate, but there is not much persistence. Authentic but not  thrilling (served blind, from half- bottle)

Drink now, 88 points

2013 Ch Raymond Lafon 13%
Sauternes (80% semillon, 20% sav blanc)

Sauternes. Deeper gold colour, wax and honey; supple with much more texture – orange citrus and tropical notes. Apricots and light nuts – this is a serious wine, with vibrancy and conpelcoity (served blind, from half- bottle)

Drink to 2032, 92 points

2005 quinta do noval silval vintage port 19.5%
Portugal

Single Quinta wines from – generally – undeclared years can combine huge pleasure with VFM. Anyway, this shows delicious juicy blueberry and red cherry, there’s some “putty” in the spirit, a touch of almond meal. There’s substance and texture, but tannins are fully resolved and “diffuse”. Clear Portuguese style, but lacking the presence and intensity of a generally declared year. No complaints, buts it’s a drink soon proposition.

Drink to 2030, and 90 points

Two with same vintage and many differences

2010 Felton road Riesling Block 1, 9%
Central Otago, New Zealand

Screwcap. Light gold colour, red apple, sweet spices, marzipan, honey and citrus; the palate adds some exotic tropical notes, and has the drive and acidity to support the 64 g/l residual sugar. I suspect it’s drying out a bit with development, so drink up – and what an enthralling match for a tea cake or fruit platter. (Notes are similar to those I made in 2020)

Drink nowish, and 91 points

2010 Ch Suduiraut 14%
Sauternes

Clear bright light gold colour, viscous and rich but the acidity can’t hide the richness bursting through; white peach, honey, almond meal and vanilla bean; palate is syrupy with just enough acid to keep the orange marmalade singing. Marvellous, rewarding drinking. (90% Semillon, 10% sav blanc, 145 g/l rs)

Drink to 2032 (but its ready for me) and 94 points

Stoney Goose Ridge EOFY report 2024-2025

It’s been another blazingly successful year for Stoney Goose Ridge. All key metrics are wonderful – sales growth, profitability, customer satisfaction, brand recognition and so on.  Recent new lines – the trailblazing umbrella brand “Caveat Emptor” has wowed across the on-premise markets in beer and wine categories. Our latest tequila “make out like a bandit” has captured hearts too, along with the FOMO range, and our latest our whole-bunch red wine ClusterFluke.

Stoney Goose Ridge does not engage in predictable EOFY firesales of lost cause inventory; our products stand unparalleled for value at their varied price-point positioning paradigms. We continue to be alert to purchase quality distressed assets; when the heat is on, our competitors predictably fold like nine-pins.

BAU continues – recruitment and nurturing of next-gen talent, dealing with nature’s unexpected vindictiveness impacting sourcing of materials to keep up with product demand; the translation of my ceaseless inspirational flow of profitable ideas into reality; the incessant demands from media for my commentary, OS conferences, and the astoundingly inevitable improvements my blending prowess makes to trial products, plus my extraordinary marketing talents.

Clearly, results could not have been achieved without my dynamic and insightful leadership, providing inspiration and motivation to all our staff. Across the board from sales, finance, legals, even the lowly beverage fabricators -we have met our BHAG. My own bonus was appropriately substantive, and several team members reached the hurdle for partial financial incentive recognition.

In short, our position is enviable, with our drumbeat of innovation through the metaverse, and our spatial computing AI mining producing a whirlwind of insights.

One if my direct reports – a stubborn mule, a bad person, stupid, terrible, a numskull and an idiot- has also been removed from the Executive ranks. These are his own words to describe himself, and his appalling behavioural episodes. It is indeed fortunate that my oversight prevented any lasting effects on staff or financials for the regrettable incidents. The usual legal penalties including retrieval of salary, bonuses etc plus public excoriation is underway, including likely custodial consequences.

I have previously advised that my recent activities in Hollywood are complete, and ongoing residual involvement does not distract me from the Stoney Goose Ridge mission. Sales of my books have been a publishing phenomenon too – internationally. I have plenty of skins in the game. Both executives that shared my responsibilities while I was absent both performed adequately and demonstrated their need for improvement. Their shortcomings were obvious to me even at a distance. They have been counselled, and my mentoring will be even more ruthlessly vigorous.

It is humbling and with deep regret that a recent audit has found significant staff underpayments going back several years. The root causes have been identified and remediated, and I am completely satisfied that no issues are ongoing. While there has been some effect on the company financials, this is a one-off and has been handled in strict accordance with accounting standards. It is critical that our staff remuneration accords to contracts, which is why stringent attention has been merited by this regrettable occurrence. It undermines key trust in the employer, and is a grievous breach of integrity.  Accordingly, the culprits responsible have been redeployed to the wider marketplace, and any references provided will be brutally straightforward. And importantly, my base and bonuses have been recalculated upwards and I have received commensurate recompense.

Your admired field marshal, and customer experience optimiser (CEO), Hector Lannible

An Oz model VP

Stanton and Killeen Vintage Port 19%
Rutherglen

Served blind. Medium ruby colour with clean spirit; blueberry, red liquorice, roses, sweet cherry liqueur, camphor and spices. Very concentrated, fresh VP style with integrated tannins – but with different tannins than Portugal, and a little sweeter. Setting origin aside, a marvellous wine, with some light chocolate vanilla crème, and plum adding to the intrigue. Australian – probably Stanton and Killeen – 2005? was my conclusion.

Unveiled, it proved older than anticipated, and clearly on a monster plateau. I last wrote about this wine in 2018, and I was delighted to taste it again. (60% Shiraz, 25% Touriga, 5% each of tinta cao, tinta barocca and Durif). The back-label had a litany of its well-deserved wine show successes. A piece of history, and a great success in provoking memories plus providing enormous drinking satisfaction.

Drink to 2035 or longer- 96 points

Surprises recently

1972 Gayfers Durif Port
Rutherglen (Chiltern)

I wrote about this wine in June 2017, but this time – served blind- it presented very differently. Such is life, when dealing with a 50-year-old wine from a winery that made way for a highway. This time around, I was puzzled by the tawny, aged colour with an amber rim; sweet fruited (pulled me to Australia as its origin) with dried fruit peel and a lot of vanilla (pulled me away from a VP style), but missing the rancio/acidy to point at a tawny. Regardless, it provided genuine drinking pleasure and bafflement after the reveal.

Drink now (or sooner, based on this bottle) – 88 points

2007 Ch de fargues 13.9%
Sauternes
This was a hasty replacement for a 2005 Ch Doisy Daene that was a bit limp; faint TCA was suggested, but it looked quietly oxidised to me which robbed its vibrancy– cork frailty in both instances. But the de Fargues was a brilliant backup. Not easy to find in Australia, but the few bottles I have tasted have been memorable.

This was a deep burnished gold colour, with an unmistakable Sauternes origin- apricot, yellow peach, vanilla icing, orange blossom; lively with spices and bitter orange notes on the syrupy palate. Power with balance. A sublime and lengthy finish. While ravishing now, I would drink up if you are fortunate to have any bottles handy.

Drink to 2023, 95 points