2010 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye 14.5%
Sicily, Zibbibo (muscat) and 195g/l residual sugar; partly air-dried to concentrate the sugars.

Deep orange/gold colour, and first impressions ran “muscat, floral, apricot, ripe and vital; super-sweet, loads of spice and length”. Apricot dominates with a mix of jam, tinned fruit and juicy ripe fresh apricots. Engaging viscous texture, with honey and vanilla bean. Having had this style once before, this was instantly identifiable. My guess was around ten years old.

This is not the most complex sweet white wine I have ever encountered, but it possesses intensity and memorability. Clearly it can take some bottle age, but won’t really change, so get stuck in.

Drink to 2028, 93 points.

2006 Ch Filhot 13.5%
Sauternes, 60% semillon, 36% sav blanc, 4% muscadelle. At least 2 years in barrel, 1/3 new

Deep gold colour, with an array of apricot, citrus, vanilla and tropicals. Obviously Sauternes style, and also absolutely at its peak, with a winning mix of fruit, freshness, and mouthfeel. I guessed it was around fifteen years old. I was surprised that it was Ch Filhot, which I generally describe as lighter, affordable but less complex and age-worthy. This was very smart from an average vintage, and outperformed my prejudices!

Drink to 2028, and 91 points