Two countries, and less familiar fortifieds

2013 Clonakilla Vintage (fortified) 18%
Canberra district, Shiraz

One of the curio Clonakilla small batch releases – I never knew this one existed, until I found it at auction recently. No surprise that it quality all through; good fruit and very well made.

Blackberry, very clean spirit and designed for balance not brute force; seductive chalky/ talcy tannins; palate has red fruits veering into black; not a blockbusting tannic monster; yet with the authority and gravitas of super-ripe shiraz with clever skilful spirit.

So its relatively soft but a delight; but maybe more in an LBVP style. I see a long holding pattern but no real improvement.

Drink to 2032, 91 points.

2001 Taylors quinta Vargellas Vintage Port 20.5%
A vintage port from a single site in Portugal, from a (generally) undeclared year. These can be terrific bargains.

Very crumbly cork (alas) and plentiful sediment when filtered (albeit no drama). Deep ruby colour, with some bricking. There’s the appropriate complex Portuguese mix of red, dark and more here, especially blueberry plus some dried green herbs too. Spirit is mellow, integrated and the wine is approachable. Palate is relatively soft, savoury and simpler than expected; dark cherries and blueberry (some of my weaknesses) with sweet spices. Easy, pleasurable drinking, and no need to wait – its on a holding pattern and I cannot see improvement ahead. But VFM and fun even though I purchased it many years ago.

Drink to 2030, 91 points

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