Portuguese, available and terrific

2017 Quinta do Noval (unfiltered) LBVP 19.5%
The LBVP is halfway cross between a VP, and a tawny, this one aged five years in Portuguese oak and chestnut casks. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão and Sousão, made from a decent year, with excellent fruit selection, and care. The style can easily improve with some bottle age – and represent great value! This wine was purchased at retail recently for $65.

A vibrant dense crimson colour, lashings of cherry liqueur and blueberries. Juicy, fleshy, bursting with vitality, and a touch of liquorice. Proper tannins, integrated spirit. Mixed fruit peel, dark spices, old leather, very, very comforting.

93 points and drink with real pleasure to 2033.

Stoney Goose Ridge – FOMO

I have had a recent flare-up of a chronic medical condition, including six nights in hospital. I was unwell before that stay, but I’m on the mend, and looking forward to resuming wine tasting. In the meantime, a teaser from Stoney Goose Ridge.

When I (Hector Lannible) took over as CEO, revitalising the company, and setting an outstanding system of transnational excellence, I didn’t fully forsee the depth of customer demand for NOB (natural, organic, bio) wines.

But I am adept at finding and leading trends, and we have an arsenal in the pipeline. Lo-fi, no-fi, au naturel. Skinsy, textured, tactile. I follow the money, and rake it in, accelerating our margins while shaming rivals with our QPR.

We began with Hipster’s Reward®, then came our Petty Nat (sparkling), and then Cloudy Hay! Our latest entrant into this niche is FOMO (Far Out Mystical Outcome). It’s sure to place an exceptional smile on the delighted faces of our happy clientele, deliver outstanding memories and certainty that our advocates will enlighten their friends and acquaintances to the engaging and irresistible pleasures of the comprehensive suite of Stoney Goose Ridge beverages. Wines, beers, spirits, mixers, cocktails, all rewarding with renowned resonances and unbeatable quality and value.

FOMO of course comes with our brand’s typically innovative packaging’s presentational stylistic verve and elan, with artistic interpretation from Binksy, under my detailed guidance.

FOMO – the wait was well worthwhile.

One from there, one from here

2012 molitor et auslese

2012 Markus Molitor Erdener Treppchen Auslese Gold capsule ** AP 37 7.5%
Mosel, purchased from the estate in 2015 and retrieved from storage in Germany this year.

(The ** indicates something extra in the category), Light gold colour, honey, quince, raisin, herbs red apple with a lick of spices. This is ready to drink, but will hold on a plateau for another ten years. The plate is creamy, fresh and balanced with lemon verbena, honey, and stonefruit. Very similar to my note from Germany a few months ago!)

Drink to 2034, 91 points.

1998 morris vp

1998 Morris VP 18.8%
Rutherglen, 77% Shiraz, 23% Touriga, trophies and gold medals from credible wine shows over a period of several years.

BTW, I reviewed this in early 2016 and this bottle is slightly more attractive! Meagre cork, but it’s performed. Still a vibrant deep crimson/black colour, it thrills with wild scents of lavender, blueberry, red liquorice, dried herbs, and mellow spirit. The palate is all about fruit definition and texture – there’s violet, plum, redcurrant, spices and best of all, vitality and flavour persistence. It’s a terrific package with at least another decade well within its stride. Hard to resist, and I have several more bottles!

Drink to 2035, 94 points

Mid-year review – end of calendar 2024

Now that 2024 is over, nearly all staff are on their compulsory restorative break – before resuming with renewed rigor, commitment, perseverance, resilience, and passion (my strengths). We reflect on the people that have left the embrace of Stoney Goose Ridge, having failed to meet their KPIs. It’s my way, or out the window. We are alert to any attempts to deviate from their non-compete periods and/or NDAs. I also welcome the new hires to our lean headcount. Their CVs will now be more impressive, thanks to the rigorous development and mentoring provided OTJ. Reviewing the piles of discarded multi-media EOIs provided plenty of entertainment and befuddlement before most went straight into the virtual wastebasket. Hint – be concise, and check grammar and spelling- UGH!

Despite double digit sales growth, and even better profitability, my restless nature views 2024 as a year of consolidation of our core capabilities. All our brands performed across wines, beers, spirits, RTD mixers and so on, from budget to ultra-luxe. Indeed, several performed so well, that sourcing additional materials will require exceptional diligence, creativity and cunning. Our global footprint expanded, with innovative cross-border blending, and sales now in thirty countries. Our social metrics, CSAT and NPS are phenomenal and envied. But there is much more to come in my timeframe horizon.

Another outstanding wine success for Stoney Goose Ridge was the launch of the Pub Test™ range (PT white aromatic, PT white full-flavoured, PT rosé. PT mellow red, and PT robust red). Yet another of my winning ideas, it solves the conundrum by providing quality and exceptional VFM at a pub. If any pub doesn’t stock the range, their premises should be avoided as they have failed the test. And of course, bonus QR codes on the bottles provide access to hundreds of sets of trivia questions! Truly, the Pub Test™ brand is an optimised high-margin generator that secures further bottom-line profit and value growth creation.

Other triumphs include our low-tech orangesque wine Limbo, and the Essential Cookbook for Humans, which has garnered literary and culinary acclaim, plus massive sales.

Once more, our legal team has tirelessly prosecuted breaches of our ironclad contracts, trademark infringements, garnering bountiful punitive damages and fulsome grovelling apologies. Allied to their valiant structural efforts to minimise taxation, my incisive negotiating prowess has ensured numerous outrageous bargains accumulating our proactive synergies and led to many favourable legislative tweaks and judicial interpretations across varied jurisdictions.

The virtual trophy cabinet has been extended to cater for the deluge of awards for marketing, packaging, innovation etc, but of course of legions of fanatical Stoney Goose Ridge customers are our true glory.

My personal staff have supported me heroically, responding to my calls, emails and so on even while I have been on essential conferences in Rio de Janeiro, Geneva, Singapore, Port Douglas etc plus while holidaying with my family at Hakuba and Telluride, with short stays at Broome, Hobart and Dunedin.

Impressively, several team members achieved a bonus, and while the quantum was not as fulsome as mine, they deserve recognition.

With my intuitive customer insights and stewardship, I have rescued neglected brands from competitors and realised scale, diversification, and operational leverage. Renowned for our resonating value proposition, unique offers personalise customer experience in the omni-channel environment, seamlessly folding new generations into our compelling e-commerce ecosystem.

Our assets have increased massively with certified revaluations of our IP and brand valuation metrics.

I am a proud HIPPO (Highest Paid Persons’ Opinion) with my incredible extreme hardcore creative abrasion challenging my minions. I have no time for the WOLF (Working On the Latest Fire) and their ignorance of strategy, nor the ZEBRA (Zero Evidence But Really Arrogant). Our data-mining team has been laser-focused to extract material that supports my multitudinous initiatives.

The Stoney Goose Ridge wine fashionistas have managed to avoid frosts, fires, and other agricultural tribulations, and as ever, our network is adept at sourcing distressed assets with myself as the final sensory and financial arbiter.

Another of my ongoing issues is talent development. I will be taking a one-month sabbatical in 2025 for a personal entrepreneurial project, and the aptitude of my hand- picked executive team is not yet up to the task of “minding the store”. But there is time, and I have options up my sleeve to manage the temporary transition. I’m sure the selected person or team will perform adequately in my absence, and there always the Batphone hotline. I expect copious tidying when I return. Plus, all critical decisions will be deferred.

I can characterise our rivals’ long-winded, asinine and self-congratulatory announcements as untrue in parts, evasive, disingenuous, and entirely unsatisfactory. Then there are their egregious greenwashing eco-ceptions. It’s no wonder customers vote with their wallets, migrate – and stay with the better quality, better value, better sensory offerings from Stoney Goose Ridge! There are people in commerce that I know and respect, but thankfully we run in different lanes, and types of business.

Plenty of our accomplishments are due to the derisive inadequacy of our competitors, their masterly inactivity and willingness to embrace the strategy of “cross our fingers,” all while waiting to be stabbed in the back after their next foot-in-mouth episode. Throw in aimless rebrandings, desperate “campaigns”, fixation with outside consultants, massive stock writedowns and a culture of indolence. What a blessed luxury to be a vital part of an industry riddled with such extraordinary incompetence! We forensically analyse their accounts, always alert to related-party transactions, “Director loans”, dubious and gratuitous sponsorships and we are adept at highlighting and publicising contemptable personal moral lapses of executives. And there are so many!

After such a year of positive momentum, all staff can look forward to thrills, triumphs, and creative tension.

Your magisterial, acclaimed innovator – Hector A Lannible

Three blind beauties

 

2011 sauternes pair

2011 Chateau Suduiraut 13.5%
2011 Chateau Raymond-Lafon 13.5%

This pair was served blind; and I was called on to describe and assess (towards the end of a terrific EOY dinner). Both were a healthy bright gold colour, and the apricot and vanilla notes instantly took me to Sauternes.

The first wine (Suduiraut) displayed just-ripe apricot, quince, dusty botrytis with terrific presence and drama; and a touch of floor polish. Lots of vanilla on the palate, honey, ginger, and abundant fruit power from a ripe year. Very sweet (138 g/l), but balanced. (93% semillon,  7% sav blanc).
Drink to 2035, 93 points.

The second wine (Raymond-lafon) had a slightly less developed colour, with greater tropical and pineapple notes. This wine had the magic combo of florals, citrus and balance (149 g/l rs); delightfully fresh and authentic. Pressed, I went for Barsac on this one – likely Ch Coutet – I was wrong but what a nice surprise!
Drink to 2038, 94 points

2007 quinta do vale meao

2007 Quinta do Vale meao 19.5%
Portugal. Also served blind, this was a vivid deep color. Blueberry, violets, dark cherry, elegant and with vivacity. Plus a producer I don’t recall trying. Portuguese for sure, early 2000s. But hard to concentrate at the end of a long night! Quality with aplomb.
Drink to 2034 . 92 points.

Two very different Oz fortifieds (inc one fail)

seppelt 1983 para

1983 Seppelt Para Liqueur (single vintage Tawny) 20.5%
Barossa, released around 2004, with no further improvement once bottled. Grenache, likely with Shiraz (and maybe something else). A bit of breathing helps. Gosh this is good.

In the familiar bell-shaped bottle, the colour was a deep khaki with a telltale olive green rim,  Floral and decadent, displaying very fire brandy spirit; caramel, vanilla and almond. Fresh and delicious, mocha, spices, salinity, and citrus peel, with a generous, lasting set of flavours. I have reviewed the 1976 and 1991 before – the line provides marvels of consistent pleasure, with the 2003 available on the Seppeltsfield website for $105.

Drink now (but any decent unopened bottle will safely keep).  94. points.

1977 morris VP

1977 Morris Vintage Port
Rutherglen (70% Shiraz, 30% Bastardo -aka Touriga)
Faded label, with a marginally raised cork, and the level was high shoulder but no dramas.

Still a deep red/black colour! Mocha, brandy, sweet brambles and blackberry; palate is sweet and syrupy, but defiantly fresh, sweet fruit and mellowness. Indestructible.

There were – alas – some cork artefacts present – I struggled to disentangle cork taint from corky/woodiness, and about and hour later reluctantly conceded that that very low-grade TCA was present, But very few would still resist drinking the wine. Such is life under the arbitrary hands of cork deities. Despite this “fail”, other bottles are worth seeking out.

No score but drink to 2035.

One from Rutherglen

2004 morris VP

2004 Morris vintage (port) 19.4%
Rutherglen, Victoria. 58% Shiraz, 26% touriga, 16% durif

Gold medals at credible shows across six years. Decent cork. Twenty years old, and plentiful sediment.  Very dense youthful black/red colour; violets, plum, fig, dark cherry, sweet spices. Here’s a wine that is relatively soft and approachable, yet has all the structural elements that hold my attention and augur well for the future; high class spirit is melded with the plentiful fruit power; the palate is voluptuous, fresh, and with fine, fine tannins to encourage another taste. Hard to resist (and I still have a few bottles).

Drink to 2034 (very conservatively), and 93 points

Two from Portugal

1975 Cockburn VP

1975 Cockburn Vintage Port

Served blind. Amber tawny colour, and clearly old (early 80s?). Roses, light mocha, sugared almond; palate less fragile than expected; spirit is holding this wine together. Unveiled – a modest VP year, a modest producer, but a triumph to have survived damn near 50 years. Certainly its been better in the past, but no shame, and no problems drinking my share!

Drink up, 91 points

2000 fonseca

2000 Fonseca Vintage Port 20.5%
Medium ruby colour; very floral with blueberry, roses and violets, spice notes too; palate is bright and crisp, very supple and civilized, dark red fruits, almond sugar, refined tannins and beautifully judged spirit. Enormous drinkability too. (This was a much better result than the bottles tasted in October 2023!)

Drink to 2035, 95 points

Just one masked wine

2001 Peter Lehmann “the king” AD 2022 Vintage Port 18.5%
Barossa Valley, 63% Cab sav, 37% Touriga

Youthful colour; absolutely bursts from the glass- musk, raspberry, blueberry, dark cherry and red liquorice. Floral with clove notes, high quality spirit. Palate is deep and sweet with some attractive mocha notes. 2005? Comfortable, with dark fruits and abundant spices. Australian for sure with the sweetness, but with a reasonable whack of Portuguese varieties – likely Touriga. I guessed the main variety as Shiraz, but surprisingly it was Cabernet Sauvignon! Unusual, but probably included to bolster the tannic frame (sometimes the task of Durif in Australian VP styles).

The ”AD 2022” is the label’s confusing cue that the wine has the capability of maturing for 21 years (and suitable for a birthday occasion).

The wine is Just a bit straightforward for higher marks, but eminently enjoyable, and thought-provoking.

Drink to 2034, and 91 points

Catch-up on recent drinks

2007 knebel spatlese

2007 Knebel winninger Rottgen Riesling Spatlese 11%
Mosel; 47 g/l residual sugar; gold colour honey.

Wax, apple and the surprising blackcurrant. Palate is still lively with sweetness ameliorated by acidy; palate is all about mixed apple and stonefruit (yellow peach and apricot); chewy, varietal and authentic.

Has seen better days however; drink up 90 points

2015 sauternes pair

2015 Ch Doisy-vedrines 13%
Sauternes 80% semillon, 15% sav blanc, 5% muscadelle

Light bright colour, light-weight aromatics of slightly green pineapple, vanilla bean icing sugar and preserved lemon. Palate shows almond meal, citrus nectarine. Ligher style than the next wine, but balanced and authentic. Ready for business, and will be consumed with great pleasure.

Drink to 2030, 92 points

2015 Ch Suduiraut 14%
Sauternes; 94% semillon, 6% sav blanc; 18 months in oak (50% new, 50% one year old) 138 g/l residual.

Served masked- I last tasted this wine around a year ago, and my notes are thankfully similar. Sauternes with a deeper colour than the wine above; crème brulee, quality oak, ginger spices, botrytis dustiness, light floor-polish VA present but under control; great density and integration. Cumquat and vanilla, liveliness, texture and persistence. Very decadent and pleasurable. Around ten years old?

Drink to 2037, 95 points

2007 croft vp

2007 Crofts Vintage Port 20%
Portugal

Served masked – Deep red colour with camphor, cherry and blackberry plus floral headsy spirit. Dense, with dark fruits, small berries and cocoa. Portuguese varieties for sure; and the spirit leans me to Portugal, BUT there;s not the drive, complexity or tannin for its suspected age (my guess was early 2000s). So, Australian. When revealed, this was quite a disappointing result for a  respectable VP vintage (and the other bottle I tried was similar).

Drink to 2030, 89 points

NV Morris Old premium “rare” Muscat 17%
Rutherglen.

Served masked. Luminnous dark, and very dense colour. Raisin, orange peel, roses, toffee, bitter chocolate. High-quality neutral spirit, It’s a meal in a half a glass if you are greedy. Concentrated raisins, and dried fruits with spices. It sits on the palate and the flavours dwell for ages. Not just about using old material, as the style needs the masterful touch of freshness too. Around 350 g/l residual sugar, but the acidity absolutely obliterates any cloying.

This wine is world class, and continues to be a bargain (a meagre $120 for a 500ml bottle, that will last for weeks if – unlike me – you have the will power to resist).

Drink now, 96 points