Just one masked wine

2001 Peter Lehmann “the king” AD 2022 Vintage Port 18.5%
Barossa Valley, 63% Cab sav, 37% Touriga

Youthful colour; absolutely bursts from the glass- musk, raspberry, blueberry, dark cherry and red liquorice. Floral with clove notes, high quality spirit. Palate is deep and sweet with some attractive mocha notes. 2005? Comfortable, with dark fruits and abundant spices. Australian for sure with the sweetness, but with a reasonable whack of Portuguese varieties – likely Touriga. I guessed the main variety as Shiraz, but surprisingly it was Cabernet Sauvignon! Unusual, but probably included to bolster the tannic frame (sometimes the task of Durif in Australian VP styles).

The ”AD 2022” is the label’s confusing cue that the wine has the capability of maturing for 21 years (and suitable for a birthday occasion).

The wine is Just a bit straightforward for higher marks, but eminently enjoyable, and thought-provoking.

Drink to 2034, and 91 points

Catch-up on recent drinks

2007 knebel spatlese

2007 Knebel winninger Rottgen Riesling Spatlese 11%
Mosel; 47 g/l residual sugar; gold colour honey.

Wax, apple and the surprising blackcurrant. Palate is still lively with sweetness ameliorated by acidy; palate is all about mixed apple and stonefruit (yellow peach and apricot); chewy, varietal and authentic.

Has seen better days however; drink up 90 points

2015 sauternes pair

2015 Ch Doisy-vedrines 13%
Sauternes 80% semillon, 15% sav blanc, 5% muscadelle

Light bright colour, light-weight aromatics of slightly green pineapple, vanilla bean icing sugar and preserved lemon. Palate shows almond meal, citrus nectarine. Ligher style than the next wine, but balanced and authentic. Ready for business, and will be consumed with great pleasure.

Drink to 2030, 92 points

2015 Ch Suduiraut 14%
Sauternes; 94% semillon, 6% sav blanc; 18 months in oak (50% new, 50% one year old) 138 g/l residual.

Served masked- I last tasted this wine around a year ago, and my notes are thankfully similar. Sauternes with a deeper colour than the wine above; crème brulee, quality oak, ginger spices, botrytis dustiness, light floor-polish VA present but under control; great density and integration. Cumquat and vanilla, liveliness, texture and persistence. Very decadent and pleasurable. Around ten years old?

Drink to 2037, 95 points

2007 croft vp

2007 Crofts Vintage Port 20%
Portugal

Served masked – Deep red colour with camphor, cherry and blackberry plus floral headsy spirit. Dense, with dark fruits, small berries and cocoa. Portuguese varieties for sure; and the spirit leans me to Portugal, BUT there;s not the drive, complexity or tannin for its suspected age (my guess was early 2000s). So, Australian. When revealed, this was quite a disappointing result for a  respectable VP vintage (and the other bottle I tried was similar).

Drink to 2030, 89 points

NV Morris Old premium “rare” Muscat 17%
Rutherglen.

Served masked. Luminnous dark, and very dense colour. Raisin, orange peel, roses, toffee, bitter chocolate. High-quality neutral spirit, It’s a meal in a half a glass if you are greedy. Concentrated raisins, and dried fruits with spices. It sits on the palate and the flavours dwell for ages. Not just about using old material, as the style needs the masterful touch of freshness too. Around 350 g/l residual sugar, but the acidity absolutely obliterates any cloying.

This wine is world class, and continues to be a bargain (a meagre $120 for a 500ml bottle, that will last for weeks if – unlike me – you have the will power to resist).

Drink now, 96 points

Four fortifieds

2005 S&K vp

2005 Stanton and Killeen Fortified 18.5%
Rutherglen, VP style; 32% Shiraz, 32% Durif, 16 % tinta cao, 10% touriga, 10% tinta roriz
Vintage rated 9/10. 1 trophy and 12 gold medals on the label.

I drank this youngster, as a recent bottle from a dinner looked a bit burned/baked. Youthful colour- morello cherry, rhubarb, violets, plus juniper. Palate is raspberry, blackcurrant lavender, camphor, red liquorice. Supple, with super spirit selection and integration. Look at the range of descriptors – always a sign of quality!

Drink to 2035; an easy 95 points.

1985 morris vp

1985 Morris Vintage Port
Rutherglen, 54% Durif, 46% Cab sav

Good colour for age, dense and intensely flavoured; dark berries. Sweet, chalk, coffee, mocha and just thrilling spirit integration. Balanced and delicious.

Drink to 2035, 93 points

1980 sevenhill vp

1980 Sevenhill Vintage Port 19.4%
Clare Valley, Shiraz
I seldom see this style from the area; and I was wary despite a cheap price at a recent auction. The cork was adequate; the colour is a quite developed ruby/tawny – plus plentiful sediment; there is sweet brandy spirit overlaying mocha and some dark fruit and chewy sweet spices; but really the spirit leads the charge here. The label quaintly claims “should be bottle aged for at least eight years” and forty-four years certainly exceeded the winemaker’s intentions. Regardless, it’s alert, and while it should have been consumed many years ago it does not fall into the curio category where excuses are easy to find. It’s still a solid, drinkable wine.

Drink now (sooner if you can), 85 points

NV Kopke Ten years old Tawny 20%
Served blind; Pale colour, roses, fruitcake, spices and some rancio. Sweeter on the palate than expected; with cinnamon, light and expressive, gentle and civilized. Citrus and toffee; light on its feet. Not enough acid for Madeira, not enough aldehydes for sherry, not the sweetness for muscat or topaque, I settled on a tawny style, but without the richness for Australia. I settled on 20 y/o Portuguese. Close enough!

Kopke is not in the first rank, but this was a super example, where the blend over-delivered on the reputation.

Drink now, 93 points (and I hope pricing is reasonable)

Stoney Goose Ridge report for fiscal year 2023-2024

Again, we had an outstanding year- albeit disappointingly, my bonus did not increase by double-digit percentages; but that’s part of my demanding role and its stringent KPIs. No other staff member has yet received a bonus in consecutive years; and clearly there are a limited quantum to award – if any.

It took a surprisingly long time for our financials to be examined– a combination of inexperienced assessors that I set straight, and the necessity to substantiate the complex corporate structure that minimises excessive taxation burdens. As a direct consequence, next financial year brings a different – and cheaper – set of official auditors.

Our assorted staff – under my rigorous and inspirational leadership have performed satisfactorily – the few failures have departed in ignominy.

Amongst our myriad new releases, I was immensely proud of our Italian blends NFI and NFT; the entire Arrogant Cane-toad range, our Molotov cocktail, the fortified Bin 666; and our new dry Sahara Rosé, which sits alongside our Brosé. Our orange-y wine Limbo has taken enormous market penetration, and deservedly driven competitors to the wall. Our debut Irish whiskey Follow your Dram already has legions of followers.

Delivering pleasure to customers is our prime objective, and both our socials and NPS provide thrilling metrics. Naturally, our existing sub- brands of beers, RTDs, mixers, spirits and wines go gangbangers, with our on-going conundrum of increasing volume without sacrificing quality. That’s merely one of my specialities – finding the right distressed assets at an acceptable margin that have a home in our array of beverages.

Our Essential cookbook for humans has been through several reprints, and has gathered numerous awards, and luminous recognition.  Our pop-up shops have been crowd-swarmed with plans for more permanent outlets in progress. The key obstacle is unimaginative bureaucrats’ myopia on providing the essential infrastructure funding to attract tourists and build the economy. We await the outcome of offers from various Government agencies in a bidding war before we commit, and we will not blink! What’s good for Stoney Goose Ridge is good for the nation!

Our formidable legal team has had a stellar year; apart from the damages we have garnisheed, their assistance in locating and exploiting tax differentials, and finessing proposed regulations has been admirable. I could not have achieved fulfilments employing my gamut of oratory and persuasive prowess without their fundamental inputs. And the train keeps a’rolling.

We are besieged by applications to join the team – whether as interns, specialists, and for the meagre vacancies we have. I have final veto on candidates, and how the selected talent can snuggle into our winning culture. We relentlessly upskill our crew through our in-house Academy, supplemented by enforced OTJ quality mentoring.

Consulting firms are eager to get their foot in the door forever, recycling their anodyne submissions for credulous corporate victims. Their strategy is to provide advice, then lever their parasites into the structure for a never-ending implementation phase, with zero knowledge transfer. Aye, there’s the rub! They underestimate the consummate skills at Stoney Goose Ridge and my unerring avoidance of their veiled phishing scams. They just waste their time!

I am in constant demand for symposiums, conferences, and media commentary on issues de jour. My personal team is adept at triage; and I only respond to the important, and urgent. Looking after commercial imperatives while nurturing subordinates is my instinct. AI has its place, but its immaturity is evident. No irrelevant shortcuts are taken at Stoney Goose Ridge.

Certainly, our competitors have delusions of adequacy; their Boards and executive ranks stuffed with interesting caricatures at excessive remuneration – only their collective amnesia and lack of a conscience prevents wholesale sackings and resignations. The combination of magisterial inertia and blatant “captain’s call” brand-trashing missteps are a marvel. You cannot make it up! We give thanks!

I blessedly continue to lead our mighty, growing organisation.

Your monumental prime mover, Hector Lannible.

Recent hasty tastings

2015 sauternes aug 2024

2015 Ch Rieussec 14%
Sauternes. Light gold colour, vanilla dust, just- ripe quince; some tropical notes, a swathe of assorted citrus, plus a bucket of spices. It’s medium bodied, but so seductive, so balanced, so textured, so fresh. Honey, stonefruit, spices.  It’s a wine to contemplate over a few glasses, seeking its nuances.

To 2034, 95 points (I awarded 97 points in February 2024, but today I was probably in a meaner mood – it’s terrific, and wish I had a few)

2015 Ch Guiraud 13.5%
Sauternes. Floor polish; orange marmalade; power, rich and ripe. Drink soonish, 90 points

2005 Croft Quinta da Roeda Vintage Port
Bright colour, Blueberry, red cherry, ripe with delicious spirit, spices firm tannins. Portuguese, early 2000s?
Smart wine

Drink to 2030, 91 points

1980 baileys vp

1980 Baileys Vintage Port
Glenrowan, Victoria

The cork was absolutely saturated, but no harm as the wine was also under screwcap! A bricky but very deep red colour; raspberry jam and syrup, plus blackberry and high-quality spirit; the palate is extremely sweet, extremely concentrated, with chalky and entirely resolved tannins; soft and persistent. This is a wine where the fruit power is monumental, admirable and deserves celebration – though nothing at all like the classical Portuguese style.

Drink to 2030, 94 points

1994 quinta vesuvio

1994 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 20%
Part of the Symington family group

Meagre cork, but it had performed its duty. Very deep colour, with some signs of maturity; orange peel, blueberry, dark cherry, fig. Very persistent and winning. Sweet for Portuguese, but very elegant and engaging. Hard to resist.

To 2035, and 94 points

Welcome back to Australia?

Winter, and fortifieds exert their willpower, with somewhat disappointing outcomes from recent auction purchases.

1992 All Saints Vintage Port 18.5%
Rutherglen
|A cooler year, with some remarkable local red wines made – but not every wine can be a winner. Here, the colour is respectable, there is sweet brandy spirit, but the dark fruit struggles to keep up. Sound, and utterly unexciting.

Drink now, 84 points

1987 Sevenhill Vintage Port 18.5%
Clare Valley
Oxidised, not rated

1991 campbells vintage port

1991 Campbell’s Vintage Port 18%
Rutherglen (70% touriga, 30% Tinta cao, Souzao etc)
Deep red with bricky edging. Back in the land of fruit vibrancy – sweet red cherry, blueberry, sweet spices; excellent spirit. Fruit compote pie, with soft, fine tannins, and supple texture. Very satisfying, in terrific condition for age, with just a minor, forgivable miss in the complexity stakes. Drink up while it retains freshness.

To 2030, 91 points

Drinking in Europe 2

Another batch of wines that we had purchased years ago, and retrieved from a relative in Germany. A further nine bottles made it back to Melbourne!

2012 grunhaus spatlese

2012 Von Schubert Maximin Grunhaus Herrenberg Riesling spätlese AP#22 7.5%
Mosel

Harmless tartrate crystals on cork (and in bottle), Light gold colour; melon, mandarine, gooseberry and earth. Seems relatively dry, but the fruit flavours shine, Drink sooner rather than later! Label is love or hate.

Drink to 2028, 91 points

2013 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg spätlese feinherb “Ur” alte reben AP#30 12.5%
Mosel.

Two bottles opened, (the first was decidedly flat) with notes on the second. This is a from a distinguished patch of old vines within the vineyard. Guessed at around 15g/l residual sugar.
Cinnamon honeydew melon, candlewax. It flows gloriously across the palate; racy, silken, with rampant brown spices and detailed texture. Not to everyone’s taste on the night, and I suspect there are better bottles.

Drink to 2034, and 93 points

2009 selbach ws spatlese

2009 Selbach-Oster Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese AP#33 8.5%
Mosel

Light gold colour; tangerine and petroleum, candlewax, white flowers, white peach, stewed apple, and spices – the whole kitbag. Silky texture with red apple and baking spices in the mix, crisp, refreshing. 70 g/l residual sugar? Can it really get any better?

Drink to 2030, and 92 points

2008 molitor ws spatlese

2008 Markus Molitor wehlener Sonneuhr Riesling spätlese AP#18 8%
Mosel and a golden capsule,

Light bright gold colour. Intense honey, guava, apricot, spices and minerals. Lip-smacking palate, with apple pie, nectarine and raciness. This looks in winning form, but my preference is to drink up while its magic rewards the drinker.

Drink to 2032, 93 points.

Drinking in Europe 1

I have been in Europe on holidays, not visiting any wineries, and quality drinks have been hard to find, and harder to drink given that daily temperatures seem to be in the mid-thirties (Celsius) and humid too.

2018 Oremus Late-harvest 11.5%
Tokaj, Hungary from  Furmint, Hárslevelü, Zéta and Sárgamuskotály, mixed botrytis and ripe grapes, oak fermented. Details.
Pale gold colour with a greenish tint. Honeysuckle, nettle, jasmine, gooseberry, quince, light honey. Viscous, with tropical and pear notes. Clean, youthful, lingering, balanced, and very good. And of course sweet. My guess was 80g/l, but winery notes state 111 g/l.

Drink to 2030, 90 points

2012 molitor et auslese

2012 Markus Molitor Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese ** AP#37 7.5%
Mosel, Gold capsule, with the ** indicating something extra in its ripeness category.
Glowing buttercup yellow/gold colour; white honey, lime, herbs with a dash of spice, ripe red apple and pear. Very good concentration, balanced acidity, and some harmless bitterness at the finish.

Drink to 2032, 92 points

2013 selbach-oster ZS auslese

2013 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese AP#8 8.5%
Mosel.
Pale gold colour, apple, nectarine, citrus and spices, dried green herbs. Racy, zingy, with a fine talcy texture. Brisk and refreshing, white peach dominant with rampant brown spices adding interest to the palate.

To 2035 and 93 points

Stoney Goose Ridge unleashes the Limbo. How low can you go?

Apart from their obtuse and obnoxious personalities, our competitors have an authoritative talent deficit combined with an unerring capability for making costly mistakes. If their usual lethargy and bureaucracy permit, when they ludicrously over-celebrate an undeserved accidental win, everyone else knows an omnishambles debacle is imminent.

Stoney Goose Ridge’s Hipster’s Reward, our sparkling Petty Nat and Cloudy Hay! lo-fi wines continue to deliver outstanding satisfaction to their target markets.  But there is room for more. After all, why should wine-drinkers seeking the wild roller-coaster ride of skinsy, orange natural wines in their unadorned no-fi state pay more for that privilege to those posing as well-meaning amateurs? There are exceptions to this generalisation but it’s like trying to spot birds in the dark in a country with very few birds.

The keywords for those wines – “funky” (aka faulty), “left-field” (aka faulty), “experimental” (aka faulty) and many, many more – depict defects as virtues.  It’s hard to make naturalistic wines that can withstand the faculties of disinterested, properly trained wine critics – unless like Stoney Goose Ridge you know the basic fundamental principles.

Supporting the excessive lifestyle and pompous bombast of semi-amateur whacko cranks (and companies posing as such) is not part of the Stoney Goose Ridge mission.

How those folk can support their influencer greed without damage to their conscience is a monstrous fraud on wine drinkers. Spouting the buzzwords about eco-inclusion, bio-sustainability, holistic wellness, restorative harmonic practices, handcrafted resonances, niche terroir, neo-organic, creative green well-being and other metaphysical mystic ambiguities are messages for “Danger, Will Robinson!”

So, the Limbo raises the bar to make a monumental statement. It’s as lo-fi as we can abide, minimal handling with token sulphur added at bottling, merely to ensure some shelf life and avoid assorted export labelling shenanigans. It’s sensual with outstanding tactility.

After sampling the Limbo against various market alternatives, focus groups swore they would no longer bother with competitors. They were astonished at its value proposition USP. “We’ll never waste our money on that other crap again” was one unsolicited comment.

The label of Limbo is also strikingly creative. Once more we outsourced the concept to the justly celebrated artiste Binksy, who curated a strikingly post-modern design without being stereotyped, lurid, unimaginative, repulsively offensive, puerile or any combination that are regrettably prevalent.

Further, rather than pitching the price of the wine above its alleged peers, Stoney Goose Ridge takes its usual incisive moral high ground, When I floated this brainwave at our skeletal market and sales experts, they recommended a price of at least $25. I am firmly a hands-on CEO and put my foot down to restructure their proposed pricing positioning principle in extremis. My merciless interventions in matters of grammar, fact, and taste are unparalleled.

I, Hector Lannible, am supremely confident that Stoney Goose Ridge’s wallet-friendly pricing determination of the Limbo will drive competitors to the wall, That’s the natural selection paradigm of capital market competition, and a very fair and reasonable outcome that benefits consumers. Channels not stocking the ultra-high-quality Limbo are covert fellow-travellers egregiously supporting outrageous customer rip-offs. They should be shamed and boycotted.

The 2024 Stoney Goose Ridge Limbo (fields-blend) RRP AUS $14.99 will be available from the usual stockists – hip bars, cafes, restaurants and quality liquor merchants.

One terrific recent dinner

2011 jj prum ws spatlese

2011 JJ Prum Wehelener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 8.5%
Mosel, AP#28

Unmistakably German. Some reduction, but still shimmering with stonefruit, tropical notes, nettles, lime and flint with residual sugar seamlessly folded into a lightweight and delicious frame, that enfolds the palate. Great maker, and a great site, displayed to advantage.

Drink to 2030, 93 points

1994 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz 13.5%
Great Western, Victoria. St Peters vineyard, (late) disgorged in October 2008, 28g/l residual sugar. Crown seal, and all the better! Notes below are not from tasting “blind’.

Mature but respectable colour, plenty of bubbles; mulberry, blackcurrant, dark cherry earthiness, light mushroom, and brimming with vitality. Its hard to believe there are better examples of this indestructible style around. As a bonus, my notes and score were consistent with my 2019 tasting note.

Drink to 2035, 95 points

2004 dow bomfim

2004 Dows Quinta do Bonfim (VP) 20%
Portugal – and technically a “single quinta”.

Usually, but not always from non-declared years (a decision of the producer- with Quinta do Noval an iconoclast now declaring every year).  Some single quintas are absolutely top wines, such as Grahams Stone Terraces. Usually, the single quinta makes up a large proportion of the declared vintages.

Decent colour for its assumed 20ish-year age; with blueberry, redcurrant, red liquorice, plentiful fruit here, and plentiful chalky tannin. The alcohol and spirit suggest Portugal, but the accessibility of the fruit suggests Oz origins (and I wrongly selected this option). In any event, the single quintas represent compelling VFM with monster enjoyment at an earlier age than the declared VPs can deliver. If only these single quinta were easier to find in Australia!

Drink to 2034, and 92 points