morris

Three countries…

~ Richard ~ Leave a comment

2007 Taylors Vintage port
Portugal
Masked. Youthful deep ruby colour; but showing floral mixed red, blue and dark fruits, quality spirit, pepper? And violets; palate is savoury, so this is clearly a Portuguese VP. Lovely powdery tannins, and terrific fruit power, exquisitely balanced. I settled on 2007, no clue on the house. And very happy when Taylor’s revealed (as I have a few bottles).

Drink to 2040 or later, 95 points

1971 Morris Vintage port
Rutherglen, Victoria
Masked again; very deep colour with some age evident; blueberry, dark fruit and spices; palate is intense with liquorice and dark fruits again on display. Sweet, and my guess was early 1980s. 100% Shiraz. This wine is in remarkable condition for its age, and there are no signs of decay.

Drink to 2040, 94 points

1962 Seppeltsfield Vintage Port DP3
Barossa Valley, South Australia
masked, and a very sweet palate, with dark fruits and mocha. The palate is soft and mellow – clearly an old Australian VP – but my guess was mid-1970s, so this is a charming wine that is still enjoyable and surprising. 8 silver and 9 bronze medals!

Drink now (it will hold), 90 points

1926 Etko Grand Commandaria
Cyprus

Not masked. Mavro (red) & Xynisteri (white). Ripe grapes left to dry in the sun, then fermented. The style is typically 390 to 450g/L residual sugar and between 15-20% ABV (This one likely to be at the lower end, and not fortified). Don’t be tricked by the 1926 age; it’s a solera, so there is a small portion of grapes of that age, and the majority from later. But’s still a magic number! And even a smidge of old material makes a big difference to the taste, and with evaporation and careless record-keeping, calculating average age is irrelevant. Plus this was believed to have been bottled in the 1970s.

Deep colour, and it looks like a PX (Pedro Ximinez). Cyprus would not come to mind, but such is life. Mocha, orange peel and dried fruits; very muscat-like, with the fruit just a bit light for the degree of sweetness.

Drink now, 96 for history, but 90 for quality.

A freak fortified

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Morris Old Premium Rare Liqueur Topaque 17.3%
Rutherglen, Victoria

This wine is the comrade of the muscat, but made made from muscadelle, picked when very ripe, fortified and barrel aged. It was made by David Morris, no doubt using some material from the stewardship of the legendary Mick Morris. And “rare” is the classification used by most Rutherglen producers to indicate the top quality level.

The wine is a deep, dark amber colour, with khaki showing on the rim; it looks old and concentrated. Away we go with malt, jersey caramels, dried fruits, a touch of butterscotch and some nuts. The palate displays mastery of the style; it’s very sweet, but there is ample acidity to keep the balance; the spirit performs its task of letting the fruit power shine. The material is old and barrel-aged but remains fresh thanks to immaculate blending with more youthful material. The flavours are ridiculously persistent and compel luxuriating in the wine’s complexities.

The wine is bottled in batches – this is altogether a marvel – a world-class wine at a paltry RRP a smidge over $100 for 500ml. Once opened, the wine can be kept for weeks – but not at my house.

No need to cellar- and this wine deserves 97 points.

Another Rutherglen ripper

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1978 Morris Vintage Port
Rutherglen, 62% Shiraz, 17% Cab Sav, 17% Bastardo (touriga), 4% Durif

A recent auction purchase, the level was down slightly (but good for age), the cork was slightly raised, and proved soggy. But the wine was just fine.

Great colour for age- liquorice, plum, blackberry, camphor, mixed spices; palate powerfully packed with mixed dark fruit as above; mocha, and spirit seamlessly melded in. Clearly Australian, and a wine of depth and charm. Tasters were totally surprised by the final options question on its age “1978, 1982 or 1986”, as the colour in no way indicated a >40 y/o wine. Indestructible, given the less-than-perfect storage evidenced by the slight ullage and condition of the cork. My assumption is that the Cabernet and Durif components were to bolster the tannins, and the Touriga to add floral and spice notes; and a great result from the blend overall.

Drink to 2035, 93 points

One from there, one from here

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2012 molitor et auslese

2012 Markus Molitor Erdener Treppchen Auslese Gold capsule ** AP 37 7.5%
Mosel, purchased from the estate in 2015 and retrieved from storage in Germany this year.

(The ** indicates something extra in the category), Light gold colour, honey, quince, raisin, herbs red apple with a lick of spices. This is ready to drink, but will hold on a plateau for another ten years. The plate is creamy, fresh and balanced with lemon verbena, honey, and stonefruit. Very similar to my note from Germany a few months ago!)

Drink to 2034, 91 points.

1998 morris vp

1998 Morris VP 18.8%
Rutherglen, 77% Shiraz, 23% Touriga, trophies and gold medals from credible wine shows over a period of several years.

BTW, I reviewed this in early 2016 and this bottle is slightly more attractive! Meagre cork, but it’s performed. Still a vibrant deep crimson/black colour, it thrills with wild scents of lavender, blueberry, red liquorice, dried herbs, and mellow spirit. The palate is all about fruit definition and texture – there’s violet, plum, redcurrant, spices and best of all, vitality and flavour persistence. It’s a terrific package with at least another decade well within its stride. Hard to resist, and I have several more bottles!

Drink to 2035, 94 points

Two very different Oz fortifieds (inc one fail)

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seppelt 1983 para

1983 Seppelt Para Liqueur (single vintage Tawny) 20.5%
Barossa, released around 2004, with no further improvement once bottled. Grenache, likely with Shiraz (and maybe something else). A bit of breathing helps. Gosh this is good.

In the familiar bell-shaped bottle, the colour was a deep khaki with a telltale olive green rim,  Floral and decadent, displaying very fire brandy spirit; caramel, vanilla and almond. Fresh and delicious, mocha, spices, salinity, and citrus peel, with a generous, lasting set of flavours. I have reviewed the 1976 and 1991 before – the line provides marvels of consistent pleasure, with the 2003 available on the Seppeltsfield website for $105.

Drink now (but any decent unopened bottle will safely keep).  94. points.

1977 morris VP

1977 Morris Vintage Port
Rutherglen (70% Shiraz, 30% Bastardo -aka Touriga)
Faded label, with a marginally raised cork, and the level was high shoulder but no dramas.

Still a deep red/black colour! Mocha, brandy, sweet brambles and blackberry; palate is sweet and syrupy, but defiantly fresh, sweet fruit and mellowness. Indestructible.

There were – alas – some cork artefacts present – I struggled to disentangle cork taint from corky/woodiness, and about and hour later reluctantly conceded that that very low-grade TCA was present, But very few would still resist drinking the wine. Such is life under the arbitrary hands of cork deities. Despite this “fail”, other bottles are worth seeking out.

No score but drink to 2035.

One from Rutherglen

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2004 morris VP

2004 Morris vintage (port) 19.4%
Rutherglen, Victoria. 58% Shiraz, 26% touriga, 16% durif

Gold medals at credible shows across six years. Decent cork. Twenty years old, and plentiful sediment.  Very dense youthful black/red colour; violets, plum, fig, dark cherry, sweet spices. Here’s a wine that is relatively soft and approachable, yet has all the structural elements that hold my attention and augur well for the future; high class spirit is melded with the plentiful fruit power; the palate is voluptuous, fresh, and with fine, fine tannins to encourage another taste. Hard to resist (and I still have a few bottles).

Drink to 2034 (very conservatively), and 93 points

Catch-up on recent drinks

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2007 knebel spatlese

2007 Knebel winninger Rottgen Riesling Spatlese 11%
Mosel; 47 g/l residual sugar; gold colour honey.

Wax, apple and the surprising blackcurrant. Palate is still lively with sweetness ameliorated by acidy; palate is all about mixed apple and stonefruit (yellow peach and apricot); chewy, varietal and authentic.

Has seen better days however; drink up 90 points

2015 sauternes pair

2015 Ch Doisy-vedrines 13%
Sauternes 80% semillon, 15% sav blanc, 5% muscadelle

Light bright colour, light-weight aromatics of slightly green pineapple, vanilla bean icing sugar and preserved lemon. Palate shows almond meal, citrus nectarine. Ligher style than the next wine, but balanced and authentic. Ready for business, and will be consumed with great pleasure.

Drink to 2030, 92 points

2015 Ch Suduiraut 14%
Sauternes; 94% semillon, 6% sav blanc; 18 months in oak (50% new, 50% one year old) 138 g/l residual.

Served masked- I last tasted this wine around a year ago, and my notes are thankfully similar. Sauternes with a deeper colour than the wine above; crème brulee, quality oak, ginger spices, botrytis dustiness, light floor-polish VA present but under control; great density and integration. Cumquat and vanilla, liveliness, texture and persistence. Very decadent and pleasurable. Around ten years old?

Drink to 2037, 95 points

2007 croft vp

2007 Crofts Vintage Port 20%
Portugal

Served masked – Deep red colour with camphor, cherry and blackberry plus floral headsy spirit. Dense, with dark fruits, small berries and cocoa. Portuguese varieties for sure; and the spirit leans me to Portugal, BUT there;s not the drive, complexity or tannin for its suspected age (my guess was early 2000s). So, Australian. When revealed, this was quite a disappointing result for a  respectable VP vintage (and the other bottle I tried was similar).

Drink to 2030, 89 points

NV Morris Old premium “rare” Muscat 17%
Rutherglen.

Served masked. Luminnous dark, and very dense colour. Raisin, orange peel, roses, toffee, bitter chocolate. High-quality neutral spirit, It’s a meal in a half a glass if you are greedy. Concentrated raisins, and dried fruits with spices. It sits on the palate and the flavours dwell for ages. Not just about using old material, as the style needs the masterful touch of freshness too. Around 350 g/l residual sugar, but the acidity absolutely obliterates any cloying.

This wine is world class, and continues to be a bargain (a meagre $120 for a 500ml bottle, that will last for weeks if – unlike me – you have the will power to resist).

Drink now, 96 points

Four fortifieds

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2005 S&K vp

2005 Stanton and Killeen Fortified 18.5%
Rutherglen, VP style; 32% Shiraz, 32% Durif, 16 % tinta cao, 10% touriga, 10% tinta roriz
Vintage rated 9/10. 1 trophy and 12 gold medals on the label.

I drank this youngster, as a recent bottle from a dinner looked a bit burned/baked. Youthful colour- morello cherry, rhubarb, violets, plus juniper. Palate is raspberry, blackcurrant lavender, camphor, red liquorice. Supple, with super spirit selection and integration. Look at the range of descriptors – always a sign of quality!

Drink to 2035; an easy 95 points.

1985 morris vp

1985 Morris Vintage Port
Rutherglen, 54% Durif, 46% Cab sav

Good colour for age, dense and intensely flavoured; dark berries. Sweet, chalk, coffee, mocha and just thrilling spirit integration. Balanced and delicious.

Drink to 2035, 93 points

1980 sevenhill vp

1980 Sevenhill Vintage Port 19.4%
Clare Valley, Shiraz
I seldom see this style from the area; and I was wary despite a cheap price at a recent auction. The cork was adequate; the colour is a quite developed ruby/tawny – plus plentiful sediment; there is sweet brandy spirit overlaying mocha and some dark fruit and chewy sweet spices; but really the spirit leads the charge here. The label quaintly claims “should be bottle aged for at least eight years” and forty-four years certainly exceeded the winemaker’s intentions. Regardless, it’s alert, and while it should have been consumed many years ago it does not fall into the curio category where excuses are easy to find. It’s still a solid, drinkable wine.

Drink now (sooner if you can), 85 points

NV Kopke Ten years old Tawny 20%
Served blind; Pale colour, roses, fruitcake, spices and some rancio. Sweeter on the palate than expected; with cinnamon, light and expressive, gentle and civilized. Citrus and toffee; light on its feet. Not enough acid for Madeira, not enough aldehydes for sherry, not the sweetness for muscat or topaque, I settled on a tawny style, but without the richness for Australia. I settled on 20 y/o Portuguese. Close enough!

Kopke is not in the first rank, but this was a super example, where the blend over-delivered on the reputation.

Drink now, 93 points (and I hope pricing is reasonable)

Retasting, with a better result

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2002 S& K recent

2002 Stanton and Killeen Vintage Fortified 18.1%
Rutherglen, 29% Shiraz, 25% touriga, 20% durif, 12% tinta cao, 12% tinta barocca, 2% tinta roriz

With my recent disappointment from tasting this wine wine in March (from two bottles), I read some enthusiastic notes on the same wine from Roscoe Halligan-Rose (Prince Wine Store). I was bemused. So, I tried one from my own cellar – with dissimilar notes to my original jottings (maybe some storage or cork vagaries) and a much happier result.

The colour was still a deep black/red, but brighter and no bricking. Now cones floral lilac, lavender, blueberry and sour cherry- with abundant spices and some lurking black fruits to add. Whoa – complexity alert.  Fine spirit, savoury (for Oz), fresh,  juicy and supple on the palate with raspberry, boysenberry and dark cherry in the mix. It’s got the verve, balance and finesse to continue for a long time. Not jammy, and super-sensual, while only pedants would ask for a nudge more tannin.

Drink to 2035 with 93 points this time and  what satisfying  difference!

We need to drink more of this style so the besotted winemakers don’t give up hope. (The “current” VP style at Baileys is 2018, Morris 2012 (not listed on their online shop), at Pfeiffer 2015, and of course Stanton and Killeen continue to have older vintages for sale. Its likely to be a similar, baffling tale outside Victoria. Prices are derisory for their amazing VFM enjoyment factor).

The VP style is not just for “after-dinner”, or hard cheeses, I can see a match with a roast, or a similarly rich meat dish. Strong (and sweet)  wines deserve time and attention rather than the often tired, cursory and slightly inebriated comments after a long and excellent dinner with plentiful beverages en route!

 

Two continents, two styles

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2007 haart gt spatlese

2007 Reinhold Haart Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese AP#15 8%
Piesport, Mosel 85 g/l rs.

Bright gold colour, this wine struts out with red apple, nectarine, a melange of mixed tropical fruits and the distinctive regional tell-tale petroleum, smoke and mineral signs.

The rich and viscous palate reflects the fruits above; everything is poised to demand more sampling; it’s a beauty – the apparent sweetness hints that it’s drying out, but in reality it’s just seamlessly and gracefully melded into the acidity. Delicious and so easy to indulge. I have not tried a Haart wine since early 2017, so this is immensely encouraging about quality and cellaring longevity!

Drink to 2030, 93 points

1990 morris vp

1990 Morris Vintage Port 19.2%
Rutherglen, Victoria

73% Shiraz, 37% Bastardo (Google suggests Trousseau, but more likely Touriga).
A recent auction purchase, the cork has done its job- just – so there will be better bottles held by enthusiasts. Deep dense ruby with some bricking but no browning; Lots of mocha, crema, marzipan, dark fruits; the palate is sweet, still with significant tannic grip, amiable high quality spirit, with cleansing acidity, this is very good drinking. But it just doesn’t provide enough real thrills or highlights to take it to the next level. Mind, its 33 years old, and in really good shape for an Oz fortified of that age.

Drink to 2028, 88 points