Retasting, with a better result

2002 S& K recent

2002 Stanton and Killeen Vintage Fortified 18.1%
Rutherglen, 29% Shiraz, 25% touriga, 20% durif, 12% tinta cao, 12% tinta barocca, 2% tinta roriz

With my recent disappointment from tasting this wine wine in March (from two bottles), I read some enthusiastic notes on the same wine from Roscoe Halligan-Rose (Prince Wine Store). I was bemused. So, I tried one from my own cellar – with dissimilar notes to my original jottings (maybe some storage or cork vagaries) and a much happier result.

The colour was still a deep black/red, but brighter and no bricking. Now cones floral lilac, lavender, blueberry and sour cherry- with abundant spices and some lurking black fruits to add. Whoa – complexity alert.  Fine spirit, savoury (for Oz), fresh,  juicy and supple on the palate with raspberry, boysenberry and dark cherry in the mix. It’s got the verve, balance and finesse to continue for a long time. Not jammy, and super-sensual, while only pedants would ask for a nudge more tannin.

Drink to 2035 with 93 points this time and  what satisfying  difference!

We need to drink more of this style so the besotted winemakers don’t give up hope. (The “current” VP style at Baileys is 2018, Morris 2012 (not listed on their online shop), at Pfeiffer 2015, and of course Stanton and Killeen continue to have older vintages for sale. Its likely to be a similar, baffling tale outside Victoria. Prices are derisory for their amazing VFM enjoyment factor).

The VP style is not just for “after-dinner”, or hard cheeses, I can see a match with a roast, or a similarly rich meat dish. Strong (and sweet)  wines deserve time and attention rather than the often tired, cursory and slightly inebriated comments after a long and excellent dinner with plentiful beverages en route!

 

2000 Pfeiffer Christopher’s VP 18%

Rutherglen, Victoria, 100% Touriga

Pfeiffer is making one of – and arguably-  the best Australian VP style with the amazing 2015 carting away numerous gold medals on the Australian wine circuit, and available on their website  for a surreal bargain price $30.

2000 pfeiffer vp

This was a recent auction purchase. The back label advises “will continue to improve for at least 21 years”, so it was expected to be ready (or near enough with the conservative winemaker predictions that allow for imperfect cellaring).

Good cork, and the sediment was easily removed with decanting

Deep ruby colour with some harmless bricking on the meniscus. There’s plentiful cinnamon spices, dark roses, cherry, and red liquorice with a faint touch pf prune. The palate is bright and fresh, and drier than most Oz VP efforts. High quality brandy spirit makes more of an impression here, overall; it’s succulent with mixed red and black fruits. There’s fine tannin, and this is another wine that provides complete satisfaction for a meagre price.

Drink to 2030, 93 points

1997 Morris VP

An excellent year for this style in Rutherglen- Stanton & Killeen and Pfeiffer made outstanding wines.
IMAG0797
But this is the VP from Morris (correct but clumsily Morris’s on the label). The cork on this 20 year-old has performed its task – the wine (87% Shiraz, 13% Cab Sav) is a vibrant but slightly murky crimson (very little sediment when decanted); camphor, cherries, cocoa and mixed spices; the palate shows more dark fruits, especially plum; powdery tannins; a sneaky, approachable wine that looked better each time around, and positively youthful. The spirit has integrated beautifully. Warm, cuddly and no rush to drink this wine.

This wine that looked absolutely better with each assessment; complexity building – and longevity – becoming more apparent.

Drink to 2032, and 94 points