Very mixed masked sweets

sweeties april 2023vitsoc april 2023

1976 Deinhard Winkeler Hasensprung Riesling Auslese

At first sight, there didn’t seem much hope of drinking pleasure (it looked like an old fortified). But it smelled like a Gewurztraminer, laden with spices, honey, apples and a touch of cork (not taint, just age). The palate was very sweet, enough to move its origin to Germany, but age a puzzle. It tasted grapey and reminiscent of muscat of Alexandria. Thus the clues mounted. German Riesling, perhaps Auslese back in 80’s? 70s? When unmasked, surprises all around. Past its best for sure, but a drinkable survivor.

Drink now 87 points (and higher if history guides you – up to 90 points)

2005 Tertre de lys d’Or Cuvee d’exception
Sauternes. Diam!

Darker colour compared to the next masked wine. Lemon meringue, vanilla pod, charry oak. Palate showed lemon and marmalade, but much lighter and straightforward than anticipated. Sauternes or Barsac for sure.

Drink now, 85 points

2014 Chateau Suduiraut 13.8%
Sauternes. 95% semillon, 5% sav blanc 150 g/l residual sugar
18/12 months oak, (50% new, 50% one y/o)

Lighter colour than its paired wine; has thrilling nettly/green pineapple and much greater impact overall. Palate is a much more viscous and sweeter with more overt oak impact. This is all class, and one to revel in. Ripe year – 2009? 2014? Botrytis and bursting with stonefruit and spices. Super freshness, length and hedonism already in an immaculate package, but will reward the patient.

Drink to 2035, 95 points now, and more to come.


Drinks from different European areas

2008 Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 7%
Mosel again, from winemaker Thomas Haag, with a short but serviceable cork. This wine was purchased from Eurocentric quite a while ago, and is in a great drinking phase.

2008 schloss lieser bjs spatlese

Bright gold in colour, it shows lime, icing sugar, and brown spice notes. The palate reveals more apple and mixed white and yellow stonefruit, with some green herb, plus the spices. It is sweeter than many in the spatlese category, but is poised for delight, being all too easy to drink and reach for more – the sign of a decent wine. Its racy, ready for enjoyment and shows no sign of fading.

To 2025, 92 points

2011 Georg Breuer Riesling Auslese 8.5%
From the Rheingau (Germany); another German area where most action is happening with the dry Rieslings – the Georg Breuer Berg Schlossberg is exceptional. But they have a range of sweeter styles too. Pale gold colour; fresh with dominant tropical fruits, particularly just-under-ripe pineapple. The wine still tastes fresh, honest and straightforward – enjoyable without providing dramatic highlights.

Drink soon, 87 points

1997 Trimbach Gewurtztraminer Vendanges Tardives 13%
Alsace (France). Buried in the cellar, and really should have been tackled earlier.

Pristine cork, and a bright deep gold colour. Vendanges Tardives (VT) is late-picked and my guess was around 40 g/l in this example. Tantalizing and unmistakable floral varietal scents – musk, apple, raisin and spices. Age and likely oxidation is showing with some furniture veneer and caramel aspects. Low acidity is a hallmark of the variety, and time has chipped away at this wine’s appeal. There is still rich mouthfeel, but it’s flatter than desirable, making drinking too much effort when othere wines are in reach.

Its peak drinking has gone by, so drink up – you may get a better bottle!