rutherglen

Welcome back to Australia?

~ Richard ~ Leave a comment

Winter, and fortifieds exert their willpower, with somewhat disappointing outcomes from recent auction purchases.

1992 All Saints Vintage Port 18.5%
Rutherglen
|A cooler year, with some remarkable local red wines made – but not every wine can be a winner. Here, the colour is respectable, there is sweet brandy spirit, but the dark fruit struggles to keep up. Sound, and utterly unexciting.

Drink now, 84 points

1987 Sevenhill Vintage Port 18.5%
Clare Valley
Oxidised, not rated

1991 campbells vintage port

1991 Campbell’s Vintage Port 18%
Rutherglen (70% touriga, 30% Tinta cao, Souzao etc)
Deep red with bricky edging. Back in the land of fruit vibrancy – sweet red cherry, blueberry, sweet spices; excellent spirit. Fruit compote pie, with soft, fine tannins, and supple texture. Very satisfying, in terrific condition for age, with just a minor, forgivable miss in the complexity stakes. Drink up while it retains freshness.

To 2030, 91 points

Retasting, with a better result

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2002 S& K recent

2002 Stanton and Killeen Vintage Fortified 18.1%
Rutherglen, 29% Shiraz, 25% touriga, 20% durif, 12% tinta cao, 12% tinta barocca, 2% tinta roriz

With my recent disappointment from tasting this wine wine in March (from two bottles), I read some enthusiastic notes on the same wine from Roscoe Halligan-Rose (Prince Wine Store). I was bemused. So, I tried one from my own cellar – with dissimilar notes to my original jottings (maybe some storage or cork vagaries) and a much happier result.

The colour was still a deep black/red, but brighter and no bricking. Now cones floral lilac, lavender, blueberry and sour cherry- with abundant spices and some lurking black fruits to add. Whoa – complexity alert.  Fine spirit, savoury (for Oz), fresh,  juicy and supple on the palate with raspberry, boysenberry and dark cherry in the mix. It’s got the verve, balance and finesse to continue for a long time. Not jammy, and super-sensual, while only pedants would ask for a nudge more tannin.

Drink to 2035 with 93 points this time and  what satisfying  difference!

We need to drink more of this style so the besotted winemakers don’t give up hope. (The “current” VP style at Baileys is 2018, Morris 2012 (not listed on their online shop), at Pfeiffer 2015, and of course Stanton and Killeen continue to have older vintages for sale. Its likely to be a similar, baffling tale outside Victoria. Prices are derisory for their amazing VFM enjoyment factor).

The VP style is not just for “after-dinner”, or hard cheeses, I can see a match with a roast, or a similarly rich meat dish. Strong (and sweet)  wines deserve time and attention rather than the often tired, cursory and slightly inebriated comments after a long and excellent dinner with plentiful beverages en route!

 

One dinner – four masked wines

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2013 sauternes pair

2013 Ch Raymond-lafon 13.5%
Sauternes (from half bottles) 80% semillon, 20% Sauv blanc.

Bright gold colour, showing pineapple rind and guava, vanilla icing, with slight volatility that usually accompanies the style. Pear and orange blossom are evident on the fresh and creamy palate, with some attractive bitterness, and some green herbs. Oak is present but balanced. Unmistakeably Sauternes, and guessed around ten years old. Pretty similar description to that from late last year but a slightly better bottle- but I didn’t pick the producer, alas. Always good VFM.

Drink to 2030, 93 points

2013 Ch Suduiraut “Castelnau de Suduiraut” 13.5%
Sauternes (from half bottles), and the second label of Suduiraut (96% semillon, 4% Sauv Blanc, 148 g/l residual sugar).

Darker gold than the other wine. Certainly, more volatility and floor with more warmth, viscosity, melon, coconutty oak and bitterness. Attractive alpine herbs too.

Under diam, which is another big plus. Another ten y/o Sauternes? Yep. A bit blousy and plain. Others liked it more than me, maybe less critical of the bouquet.

Drink to 2027, 88 points.

2000 vp pair

2000 Stanton and Killeen vintage fortified 17.7%
Rutherglen 38% Touriga, 24% tinta cao, 18% tinta barocca, 14% Shiraz, 6% Durif.

Vintage rated 8/10 by the winemakers.

Morello cherry, redcurrant, wild raspberry fruitcake spices and some almond. VP style for sure. Palate has red and dried fruits, red fruits, milk chocolate and excellent spirit. The wine is fresh, and light on its feet. Sweetish, and around twenty years old, Australian. Touriga makes a contribution – maybe Stanton and Killeen? Very good wine!

Drink to 2035, and 93 points

2000 Dow’s Vintage Port 20%
Portugal

Drier style. Youthful dense colour. Almond, pecan, plum, violets. Power and grace. A complete, fascinating wine with many years ahead. Portuguese, vintage, maybe 2000? Or is it a single quinta?

Drink to 2040, 94 points

One local, one German, and another loss

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2002 S&K vp

2002 Stanton and Killeen Vintage Fortified 18.1%
29% Shiraz, 25% touriga, 20% durif, 12% tinta cao, 12% tinta barocca, 2% tinta roriz

Deep black/red colour with some bricking. Mocha, spices, creaminess, excellent spirit integration, and dark blackberry. Palate is packed with liquorice and aniseed, and fruitcake spices. Vintage port style, but It was certainly sweeter than Portuguese models. I suspected touriga inputs alongside Shiraz, and age around 25 years. Stanton and Killeen rate the vintage as very good with an 8/10 rating.

After the wine was unmasked, I was disappointed that marque’s usual depth, complexity, suppleness, savoury bite and drinking pleasure was less than expected. A sound wine, but lacking the expected thrills.

Drink to 2030, 91 points

2007 haart auslese

2007 Reinhold Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg riesling Auslese 7.5%
Mosel, AP#16 and 127 g/l rs.

Gold colour; plentiful spices, red apple, white peach, and passionfruit; palate is fresh and lush, creamy plus some mineral and light smoke with that classy balance between its high sugar (for an auslese) and acidity that avoids cloying and leaves one begging for more. A delight.

Drink to 2030, 94 points (and thankfully still similar to my notes from Jan 2017)

I was saddened to learn of the recent death of Willi Schaefer. I love these Mosel wines – pure and unforced. I had a terrific visit to the dining room in the house in 2007. We were welcomed, despite our sketchy knowledge of the wines and our inability to purchase more than a token bottle or two. An unhurried and extensive tasting, with plentiful knowledge transfer which provided the determination to purchase and cellar their wines. I will drink my stock with pleasure and treasure my memories.

Three Australian vintage fortifieds

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1994 peter lehmann vp

1994 Peter Lehmann “the king” AD 2015 (Vintage Port) 20%
Barossa Valley, 100% Shiraz

An auction purchase last year for $32. Reasonable cork, and abundant sediment.
I thought there was some faint oxidation present, but not to the extent that it would worry – I need to respect a mature, thirty-year-old fortified.

Colour was mature, deep and bricky. The wine offered very classy mellow brandy spirit, hazelnut, mocha, cola and dark plumcake. Absolutely, obviously Australian. The palate was round and rich, with more sweet spices emerging, and the spirit is a winner.

There may be better bottles, but this one will drink to 2030, and 90 points.

1997 ch reynella vp

1997 Chateau Reynella Vintage Port 19%
Bottle #8097, McLaren Vale, South Australia (different bottle image)

Served masked, the wine is still a deep ruby colour with trivial bricking; dark fruited style – black cherry, plum and blackberry, with some spice. Australia, and Shiraz.  The palate is rich, sweet and balanced. with terrific quality brandy spirit. The finish is pleasingly dry finish, but there is some hotness. My guess at its age was late 1980’s to early 1990s.

People at the lunch had no qualms about seeking a top-up., but this bottle was not quite as memorable as the one consumed and reviewed in October 2018.

92 points, and drink to 2030.

1995 S&K vp

1995 Stanton and Killeen Vintage Port 19.0%
95% Shiraz, 5% Touriga Rutherglen, Victoria.

Another auction purchase last year for $31. “A big full style that will mature and improve in bottle for up to 25 years” was the accurate statement on the back label.

Deep ruby with some bricking. Aromatic, violets and menthol, wafts of sweet mixed spices. Mellow, rich and lush – camphor, raspberry jam, sweet dark fruit – blackberry, and raspberry plus excellent brandy spirit.  Yes, it’s less “multi-dimensional” than other vintages of S&K, but their track record is consistently excellent.

To 2030 (or longer), 91 points

One Rutherglen fortified

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1988 s & k vp

1988 Stanton and Killeen Vintage Port 18.2%
Rutherglen, Victoria. 100% Shiraz, vintage rated as 8.5/10 by the winemaking team

I’m lucky enough to have purchased this recently at auction for $35 (less than $1 per year!). A decent cork for its age, and its sediment demanded a decant. Very deep black red colour, with definite bricking. Black cherry, plum, blackberry with some chocolates. Sweet but not one-dimensional, there’s some red fruits in the mix with the dark, and a touch of marzipan. Brandy spirit has integrated beautifully, and I can’t see any upside in waiting, as this is downright delicious now, albeit with more time up its sleeve.

Drink to 2030, and 93 points.

Three wines, three countries, two styles

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2007 schmitges auslese

2007 Schmitges Erdener treppchen Riesling auslese* 7.5
Mosel, AP #15, 110 g/l residual sugar (500ml bottle)

Adequate cork. (The * indicates “more” than the minimum ripeness requirements).  Gold colour with a whisp of copper; apricot and tangerine, rum ‘n raisin, candle-wax, baking spices, grapefruit.

Really in the zone – absolutely true to style, energetic viscous honey on palate, plus the mix of dried and fresh citrus peel, and persistent spices. Will live on but why wait?

Drink to 2030, 92 points

1977 Quarles Harris Vintage Port
Portugal, and not a house I am familiar with, but owned by the Symington family, made in a “firm and dry” style.

Served blind, circumstances rendered note-taking difficult. Pale ruby colour, faded roses, putty. The palate showed (light) cherry and some (light) cocoa. The spirit was well integrated, and the wine was fully mature, mellow and enjoyable. My instant conclusion was “Portuguese VP, and greater than twenty years old”. The next part was trying to determine how much older, and I settled with the eighties (probably 1985).  A nice surprise when revealed it was 1977. But the wine may have been better say ten years ago, even though we’re in the realm of cork and cellaring varaiblilty.

Drink now, and 90 points

1994 gehrig vp

1994 Gehrig Vintage Port 17.5%
Rutherglen, Victoria

Served blind, this was clearly a vintage fortified. Pale in colour with rose petal, and a dash of musk/incense, its sweetness suggested an Australian origin. Supple, mellow and ready. On a good drinking plateau. The wine’s donor prompted that I had previously written about this wine (April 2021) and my notes are very different. This wine seemed more mature, with less overt fruit and tannin – and yet it provided greater “deliciousness”. (Photo is from 2021).

Drink soon, and 92 points.

One VP and a loss

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1963 Warre’s vintage Port
Served masked. Pale faded rose colour; and determinedly Portuguese; blue and red plum fruit with some Turkish delight, mocha, cocoa, valrhona choc. Completely mellow with just a touch of nuttiness. The spirit is essentially holding this wine together, and my guess for age was around 1970. Great fun as I am rarely fortunate enough to try sixty-year-old VPs, and this wine isn’t yet decrepit. Its donor advised that there was monster sediment that was filtered off.

Drink now (until 2033 and 93 points

Bill Chambers died recently – terrific links are here, and here but I will add a few reminiscences, as I visited Chambers’ winery many times over the years.

Curiously, my (late) father Frank worked at the vineyard for a brief period labouring in the 1940s.  He also took the family to Rutherglen on many occasions, where we usually stayed at Wahgunyah’s Riverside motel, with Buller’s bird park an essential stop. These visits continued with my partner and children.

On one occasion, Bill met us on the tasting verandah letting us know “wines are all in the fridge- help yourselves”. We usually made a point of wandering off to admire the ornate “exhibition” barrel. I also remember finding Bill rebottling some 1958 muscat, which was very reluctant to pour, just slowly trickling. Known for the age and complexity of the muscats and topaques, we could usually also find a well-priced red wine or two to buy. I have many more memories of Bill’s friendliness and generosity.

Finally, one remarkable talent of Bill’s was not well known to the public although wine show judges and winemakers would be aware of his prodigious wine spitting technique.

Bill could effortlessly direct a stream of wine with exceptional pace and accuracy into a bucket several metres away, while we watched in awe and envy – my own efforts shorter, less precise, and with occasional random dribbles. Vale Bill!

One younger Stanton & Killeen Fortified

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2010 S&K vp

2010 Stanton & Killeen Vintage fortified (port) 18.9%
Rutherglen, Victoria
Varietal composition not known, but includes a significant amount of Portuguese port varieties.

Served masked – Ruby colour; camphor, fruitcake, lavender, spice, cherry, clove, cough syrup – full of interest! Palate is sweet(ish), with dominant dark fruits, and not chocolate/mocha! Complex bouquet but somewhat disappointing thereafter. Very decent spirit, and my guess on age was circa fifteen to twenty years, so 2005-2010. Didn’t look structural enough to be Portuguese (although a LBVP crossed my mind), yet also lacked the honest, brutal power of most Australian vintage fortifieds. A noted winemaker present stated with logic “Portuguese, LBVP”. Just not enough structural “stuffing” for a higher score.

Drink to 2030, and 90 points.

Two continents, two styles

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2007 haart gt spatlese

2007 Reinhold Haart Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese AP#15 8%
Piesport, Mosel 85 g/l rs.

Bright gold colour, this wine struts out with red apple, nectarine, a melange of mixed tropical fruits and the distinctive regional tell-tale petroleum, smoke and mineral signs.

The rich and viscous palate reflects the fruits above; everything is poised to demand more sampling; it’s a beauty – the apparent sweetness hints that it’s drying out, but in reality it’s just seamlessly and gracefully melded into the acidity. Delicious and so easy to indulge. I have not tried a Haart wine since early 2017, so this is immensely encouraging about quality and cellaring longevity!

Drink to 2030, 93 points

1990 morris vp

1990 Morris Vintage Port 19.2%
Rutherglen, Victoria

73% Shiraz, 37% Bastardo (Google suggests Trousseau, but more likely Touriga).
A recent auction purchase, the cork has done its job- just – so there will be better bottles held by enthusiasts. Deep dense ruby with some bricking but no browning; Lots of mocha, crema, marzipan, dark fruits; the palate is sweet, still with significant tannic grip, amiable high quality spirit, with cleansing acidity, this is very good drinking. But it just doesn’t provide enough real thrills or highlights to take it to the next level. Mind, its 33 years old, and in really good shape for an Oz fortified of that age.

Drink to 2028, 88 points