2016 Tim Adams Botrytis Riesling 11%
Clare Valley, South Australia (half bottle, screwcap)

I have a soft spot for Tim Adams, where the (dry) Rieslings, the Aberfeldy Shiraz (and other wines) were once household staples. Very well made, keenly priced and with a surprisingly broad range of museum wines at cellar door, what more could you want?

Light gold in colour, there is trademark botrytis “dustiness” plus varietal Riesling apple and pear, with bonus spice notes. The palate shows classic citrus (esp. mandarine) with a dollop of ripe peach and apricot. It’s clean crisp, lingering and completely delicious, with added concentrated textural interest.

Waiting, or holding hoping for botrytis is a fraught exercise (strong nerves and deep pockets are helpful). Reduced yields, fermentation and storage issues – then you merely need to sell it! I don’t understand why even the best examples struggle; maybe people think “what’s the catch” – it’s too expensive – or not expensive enough.  Or “what foods will it match”? But I have no trouble with fresh fruits or the simplest cakes for this style. It’s 87 g/l residual sugar – all absorbed by the acidity meaning it smells and tasted fresh. I’m sure younger vintages are available, and who wouldn’t enjoy this?

No hurry under screwcap, but it looks ready – drink to 2030 and 92 points.