NV Seppeltsfield Paramount aged dry apera DP 898 23.7%
Bottle 13-119, South Australia

100% Palomino, with an average age of 49 years, in a lavish package (500ml, and $550 ex-winery). Made by a solera system, and with neutral spirit.

Sherry (apera in Australia) was what our older winemakers grew up with; now it’s a style that few persist with – hard to make, and harder to sell.

A glowing amber/yellow colour with some green tints; and this is a “sherry” style – not bone dry, but rippling with seaspray, salinity, walnut, honey and vanilla; the palate is viscous and lively, with white peach and amaro herbs. Its warming, with effortless length and freshness. It’s a marvel that combines (extreme) aged material with freshness – a marvel of construction. This is a wine made to share, and not much is needed as the flavours dwell fantastically. Then you want to reward your senses again with a further sample.

Drink now, and 97 points.

2020 Pieropan Le Columbare Recioto di Soave Classico 13%
Garganega, Veneto, Italy 500ml

Air-dried grapes on mats, so they shrivel, and can develop botrytis, then pressed and aged in large oak barrels. Gold colour, with tropical aromas – banana, pineapple, guava, apple, raisins, camphor, wood spices and honey. It’s sweet (120 g/l residual) but refreshing and complex. Lots going on, with lots of wrong guesses with options questions! Outside my usual experience so its lifespan is a bit of a guess. Very pleased to have tasted this too.

Drink to 2030, 93 points