The colour is a deep, clear khaki/brown.

It pours slowly- like motor oil -into the glass. demonstrating its aged concentration. It smells of stewed raisins, and strong dark coffee. There is a streak of cleansing acidity that accompanies the mixed flavours of raisin, almond and mocha. The wine (17% a/v) dwells in the mouth, sticking to all parts.

This Rutherglen muscat falls into the “rare” classification. The price at cellar-door is a very respectable and fair $75, which means canny buyers can acquire the wine for around $60.

A bottle doesn’t seem to last long in my household.

This hedonistic world-class style deserves 94 points, while perhaps some judicious freshening with younger material could add to the aromatics.