2002 Stanton and Killeen Vintage Fortified 18.1%
Rutherglen, 29% Shiraz, 25% touriga, 20% durif, 12% tinta cao, 12% tinta barocca, 2% tinta roriz

With my recent disappointment from tasting this wine wine in March (from two bottles), I read some enthusiastic notes on the same wine from Roscoe Halligan-Rose (Prince Wine Store). I was bemused. So, I tried one from my own cellar – with dissimilar notes to my original jottings (maybe some storage or cork vagaries) and a much happier result.

The colour was still a deep black/red, but brighter and no bricking. Now cones floral lilac, lavender, blueberry and sour cherry- with abundant spices and some lurking black fruits to add. Whoa – complexity alert.  Fine spirit, savoury (for Oz), fresh,  juicy and supple on the palate with raspberry, boysenberry and dark cherry in the mix. It’s got the verve, balance and finesse to continue for a long time. Not jammy, and super-sensual, while only pedants would ask for a nudge more tannin.

Drink to 2035 with 93 points this time and  what satisfying  difference!

We need to drink more of this style so the besotted winemakers don’t give up hope. (The “current” VP style at Baileys is 2018, Morris 2012 (not listed on their online shop), at Pfeiffer 2015, and of course Stanton and Killeen continue to have older vintages for sale. Its likely to be a similar, baffling tale outside Victoria. Prices are derisory for their amazing VFM enjoyment factor).

The VP style is not just for “after-dinner”, or hard cheeses, I can see a match with a roast, or a similarly rich meat dish. Strong (and sweet)  wines deserve time and attention rather than the often tired, cursory and slightly inebriated comments after a long and excellent dinner with plentiful beverages en route!