Surprises recently

1972 Gayfers Durif Port
Rutherglen (Chiltern)

I wrote about this wine in June 2017, but this time – served blind- it presented very differently. Such is life, when dealing with a 50-year-old wine from a winery that made way for a highway. This time around, I was puzzled by the tawny, aged colour with an amber rim; sweet fruited (pulled me to Australia as its origin) with dried fruit peel and a lot of vanilla (pulled me away from a VP style), but missing the rancio/acidy to point at a tawny. Regardless, it provided genuine drinking pleasure and bafflement after the reveal.

Drink now (or sooner, based on this bottle) – 88 points

2007 Ch de fargues 13.9%
Sauternes
This was a hasty replacement for a 2005 Ch Doisy Daene that was a bit limp; faint TCA was suggested, but it looked quietly oxidised to me which robbed its vibrancy– cork frailty in both instances. But the de Fargues was a brilliant backup. Not easy to find in Australia, but the few bottles I have tasted have been memorable.

This was a deep burnished gold colour, with an unmistakable Sauternes origin- apricot, yellow peach, vanilla icing, orange blossom; lively with spices and bitter orange notes on the syrupy palate. Power with balance. A sublime and lengthy finish. While ravishing now, I would drink up if you are fortunate to have any bottles handy.

Drink to 2023, 95 points

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