Author: Richard

1990 Craiglee Shiraz

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“selected and bottled at Craiglee exclusively for Walter’s wine bar”

Apparently a few barrels were kept in oak for a few months longer while the standard Craiglee Shiraz went on to win 27 gold medals and a clutch of trophies (is there another Australian non-fortified wine with a better show record?). I extricated this remnant bottle during a cleanup of the Craiglee stocks, and had no clue that it was ever made (1990-1993 apparently).

I never got to Walters, even when located first in Rathdowne Street Carlton as “Maria and Walters”, but have been very fortunate to taste the 1990 Craiglee Shiraz many times, most recently in mid-January. I cannot discern the difference in the Walter’s selection. Its a 26 year-old wine from Sunbury Victoria, in stunning condition made by long-time winemaker Pat Carmody.

1990 craiglee shiraz

I broke the cork, but it had performed its duty.

The deep colour is more ruby than garnet; while there is clearly bottle development, the wine in still vibrant and fresh (and I would have guessed late 90’s). Its magically balanced, with sweet ripe raspberry and dark cherry aromatics and flavours swamping faint dusty oak. Yet this fruit-centred con concentrated medium- bodied wine is savoury and succulent with faint gamey nuances., and mingled peppers and spices. Long, long finish (>18 seconds).

An astonishing achievement and an eye-opener for those more familiar with traditional South Australian Shiraz; you can have depth of flavour without jamminess. Its more akin to a Northern Rhone wine in style. An utterly delicious drinking privilege, with the evidence pointing to at least another 10 years of life, cork permitting.

Drink to 2025, 96 points

NV Chambers rosewood rare tokay (17%)

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What’s in a name? This wine is labelled as Tokay, made from Muscadelle grapes , and the style is generally now called Topaque.

Chambers Rosewood is a long-established winery in Rutherglen. I used to travel there with my parents, and the welcome was “wine is in the fridge on the verandah – help yourselves” from legend Bill Chambers. You poured into “shot-glasses” and most wine was available by the bottle and flagon.

Despite modernisation over the years, there is still a baffling – and large range of wines available to taste, with some varieties I haven’t seen elsewhere.

nv chambers tokay

A lovely lunchtime treat (served blind, as usual).

The first thing that impresses is the colour, a dark motor oil, brown yet still with a green/khaki rim. Great age suspected, and it was viscous, reluctant to swirl. Then it amazes with just how much flavour can be compressed into its volume; there is the varietal muscadelle tea and malt, plus some almond and mocha; (no butterscotch here though, another typical descriptor). And it goes on, just defying my efforts to keep smelling and stop sipping.  If only I could have a bigger glass! And a bewildering long finish; amazing.

Its the top quality tier – “rare” which describes these luscious beauties well. They have had many years maturing in barrels, become denser and richer.

But these decadent Rutherglen fortifieds are not just about aged material; there is the mastery to blend in some younger, fresher material; so the density and concentration is not cloying – a treasure. The price ($250 per half bottle), in world terms is fair. A half bottle would be nicely shared with 4 people, and provide an outstanding sensory experience.

Drink now – 98 points!

 

1990 Campbells Touriga Vintage Port 18%

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How could I resist trying this Rutherglen VP made from Touriga? Stanton and Killeen are well known for their use of Portuguese varieties in their VPs’s since 1997, but Chris Pfeiffer earlier made wines for Lindeman in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s using Touriga, Gran Noir and maybe other Portuguese varieties sourced from just over the NSW border in Corowa – I don’t know if these plantings still exist.

1990 campbells vp

For this wine, the cork has performed, and the label is retro and functionally brutal.

But I can’t discern Touriga in this Campbells’ wine, and would have punted it being Shiraz (its likely to have minor components of Shiraz and Durif). It’s sweet but well within normal bounds for the style. It’s a dense red colour with some trivial bricking on the meniscus. The (brandy) spirit is well integrated. The dominant character is dark cherry, backed with some straw/dried herb and orange peel, perhaps a touch of cough mixture and cola. It’s smooth, rich and raisiny, mellow and just what’s needed on a muggy Melbourne night. Drink over the next few years before the fruit recedes.

Drink to 2020, score 88 points

Sparkling reds extravaganza

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Just one evening after Australia day, a small group tried 8 sparkling reds (aka sparkling Burgundy). It’s not quite a unique Australian style, but near enough; many European tasters are perplexed. It’s a style that seeks to balance ripe fruit, and acidity. Residual sugar via liqueuring, typically  with “port” styles  between 15-30 g/l being common – and necessary – to balance the tannins. Time post-disgorgement helps, although “how long?” is a matter of personal preference.

Sparkling reds are a surprisingly food-friendly style; anything “gamy” succeeds; turkey, duck, pork, some cheeses, or merely as an interlude; even beef succeeds; I am not at all in favour of deployment as a “breakfast style”, or with bacon and eggs; this underplays its potential seriousness and quality.

Time on lees helps, but earthy and mushroom aspects seem to emerge up after about 10 years; 15-20 years on lees seems too much based on the few samples I’ve had. Brett needs close attention, as it thrives in the environment of sugar.

The interplay of these elements, plus temperature makes a big difference.

Extended time on lees means there is more chance that the wine has had several winemakers involved through its path to release.

Australia has generally used Shiraz for the style, but I’ve seen examples with Cabernet Sauvignon, Durif, Pinot noir and Merlot, plus assorted blends. Wines were served in brackets of two, and my notes are impressions, not fully contemplative.

2008 Castagna (Beechworth 13.5%) – 89 points

NV Rockford (Barossa) disgorged August 2010 – 92 points

The immediately noticeable difference is that the Rockford seems richer and sweeter. It’s creamier, oakier with raspberry red fruits. A real crowd-pleaser, while the drier Castagna showed some light mushroom, and fine mousse.

I have had worrisome experiences with leakage with Rockford in the past; this bottle was pristine.

2005 Peregrine ridge (Heathcote) 14% – not rated

2005 Peregrine ridge (Heathcote, late disgorgement, 6.5 years on lees) 14% – 94 points

This was a useful exercise, with the later-disgorged style showing a creamy texture, raspberries, violets and Its had well-deserved success in some wine shows. Lovely drinking, and perhaps even better with a little less r/s.  I thought the standard release was very dull in comparison – a faulty bottle is suspected.

2002 Andersons (Rutherglen) 14.5% – 96 points

1998 Leasingham Classic Clare 14% – not rated

The Anderson’s is a lurid healthy bright red colour. Dense, creamy with has balanced mushroom, its bursting with ripe blackberry dark fruits; there is compelling deli meats and charcuterie, and spiciness. To my bafflement, its still available at cellar-door for a derisory $49. Lots of well-merited show bling. Extraordinarily good VFM.

The Leasingham has alas, died.

1991 Seppelt Show (Grampians) 13%, 6.5 years on lees – 96 points

2004 Seppelt Show (Grampians)  13.5% 8 years on lees- 96 points

It’s just as well these two wines were not masked, as they were just so good and so different. Seppelt has a long history with sparking reds, even their standard vintage sparkling red (available for less than $20 to canny buyers) will surprise – even better if it was under crown seal)

The 1991 was at a lovely stage; certainly more developed with some honey, hay, camphor, truffle, leather and dried mushroom. But fruit is still present; a very appealing package, but to drink, not to keep.

The 2004, from the St Peters, Imperial and McKenzie blocks) is a ripper, albeit embryonic. Its very ripe and somehow balances bright red berry fruits with a gentle touch of capsicum and tomato-leaf, without veering into greenness. The plate is darker, some chocolates, an array of mixed spices and so finely manicured!  Leave it for 5 years to soften, and it will be very, very special. Or leave for much longer, safe with a crown seal to make it almost indestructible.

All in all, however, a stimulating set of wines, that deserve those terrific scores.

1981 All Saints Vintage Port

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This was a recent auction purchase, so I am doing myself no favours by recommending this wine.

1981 all saints vp

It looks like a “lab label”, complete with a minor spelling mistake for the eagle-eyed. The cork has performed its duty.

All Saints is located near Rutherglen (albeit nearer Wahgunyah). Its history is replete with numerous label, marketing and winemaking changes, and it’s now run as an independent spin-off from Brown Brothers. But there was never any doubt about its store of old material. I recall my parents staying at the Riverside Motel, and All Saints was always one of our destinations; down the long tree-lined gravel road, through to the amazing castle-like façade; inside the gloom, coolness and numerous large barrels, before tackling a vast range of wines of bewildering quality, from forgettable to sensational.

The Vintage ports from All Saints have held up remarkably well, with excellent recent tasting results going back to the 1960’s.

This wine is Shiraz based, and it’s colour is a medium density brick red, with some definite browning. (and minimal sediment). Yet it is still full of character – there is ripe plummy fruit, gentle mocha flavours with a touch of raisin, and the fruit has coped with the spirit. Not as sweet as many, it’s a wine of civility that is drinking admirably, with lingering crisp acidity.

There is no capacity for improvement, but at 35 years, its ready!

Drink to 2020 (although it will hold), score 90 points

2001 Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Hengst 14.5%

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Obsessive readers will recall an earlier post (May 2015) when I tasted the 2002 edition of this wine. Alsace wines are often “manly” and Zind Humbrecht is typically at the extremely powerful end. Hengst is one of the too-numerous Alsace grand cru sites. The colour is a bright brassy gold, but very respectable for a wine that is 15 years old (and the long cork has performed its duty).  Alas, the tall  bottle is ridiculously heavy. The wine however presents with archetype dark honey, musk and rose-petal aromas.

zh 2001

Alsace is situated near the border of France and Germany, meaning its history is littered with changes of nationality. On one of the occasions I visited this scenic area, the couple who owned the B&B spoke to each other in different languages – they understood both, but each preferred to speak in a different one!

Meanwhile, the palate is lush and ripe (guessing 40 g/l sugar), oily, honeyed, with apricot, other ripe stonefruits, camphor and unashamed phenolics.  Gewurztraminer is a wine of distinct intrigue, but usually one glass is quite enough. This bottle passes this hurdle admirably, despite nearing the end of its drinking span – and it probably would have been better a few years ago. The acidity has ensured the sweetness does not cloy, and the wine possesses “drinkability”.

Drink to 2018, score 90.

FYI, the vintage rating chart published by Alsace producer Hugel is here

Hall of shame (cork problems in 2015)

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I have kept a tally of wines opened and any problems for several years (see the page on corks and statistics).  I have counted only my own wines, not wines from functions where I cannot be certain of “discards” before they were served. I have also excluded from my tally any wine likely to be too old, nor have I included faults such as Brett.

The faults included are TCA (“corked”) and oxidation (bruised apple, or madeirisation). I don’t claim that I am particularly observant or overly sensitive to these issues; I have probably been lenient.

I have found no problems with any wines I have opened under diam, screwcap or crown seal – except for one diam line viewed as a fault at bottling or in preparation for bottling. One further (cork-sealed) wine was excluded as  I assessed the problem was heat damage in transport or storage (an auction purchase).

No producer sets out to make wines that may fail due to their closure; however, it is the problem of the consumer to attempt to gain a refund or recompense for wines that may have been treasured for years. Some customers no doubt try to abuse this, but often return and checking procedures are overly onerous (or non-existent) often merely to obtain a replacement with a “current vintage”.

Here is the list of problem wines in 2015, and the outcome

  • Domaine Stirn (alsace) 2005 Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz  – oxidised
  • Tardieu Laurent (N Rhone) 1999 Hermitage – TCA
  • Louis Sipp (Alsace) 2004 Riesling Osterberg – oxidised
  • JL Chave (n Rhone) 1995 Marsanne – oxidised
  • Veuve Clicquot (Champagne) 2004 – TCA – replaced by vendor
  • F Gueguen (Chablis) 2007 Bourgros – oxidised– credited by importer
  • Craiglee (Sunbury) NV Sparkling red – TCA – replaced by winery
  • Kreglinger (Tasmania) 2005 sparkling– TCA – replaced by distributor
  • Domaine Stirn (Alsace) 2007 Riesling Brand – TCA

The “headline number” for 2015 is 7.44% problems with wines with a cork seal – which continues to be well above industry claims of 2-5% – in itself still a dreadful indictment.  Even more personally distressing is the disproportionate number, and percentage of problems with imported wines.

Importers could perform a useful role by encouraging their producers to move to screwcap (or diam), and could easily publicise which product lines have this benefit.  This simple step would – at least- encourage me to purchase more Champagne (where the cork is concealed by the foil).

Tyson Stelzer’s latest Champagne Guide 2016-2017 thankfully includes some information on producers using diam. Tyson believes cork taint is a small problem in Champagne – but oxidation is the main issue.

Importers should also have a simple return and replacement policy – I have been met by the extraordinary comment “our margins don’t allow for replacements”.

Consumers should try to keep bottle and contents, plus the cork, and be vigorous about trying to obtain replacement – as should be their right.

I hope for many less cork problems in 2016, and wish my readers well. I hope that some of my reviews have encouraged greater consumption and experimentation with off-dry and sweet wines.

2006 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling auslese long goldkap 7%

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Goldkap (or gold capsule) indicates more sweetness, the “long” also shows more; on this bottle the front and back lablels do not display any extra words – at least for this vintage-  so one must look at the capsule colour, and be able to compare with a “standard” Schloss Lieser auslese goldkap. Trust me on this until I find other bottles and display a comparison photograph.

Golden in colour, with dusty botrytis and apricot marmalade notes present. Viscous with oranges, grass and green nettle joust with the very rich melon and stonefruits. 185 g/l residual sugar, yet the trademark Mosel acidity ensures this is a bracingly refreshing and balanced wine with time in reserve. It’s a marvel on how long the flavours dwell in the mouth, teasing to want more pleasure, while the sensory gratification still lingers.

2006 schloss aus lgk

What is an appropriate food – if any- to accompany this wine? Avoid anything creamy – have a fresh fruit platter, or a fruit tart, but leave plenty of time for contemplation and admiration.

Drink to 2028, score 94.

Two from Barsac (14%) and a fortified

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The two sweet white wines were served masked,  both from 2005, and were Chateau Filhot, and Chateau Coutet. Both are Semillon dominant (Filhot 60%, Coutet 75%, each with a smidgeon of Muscadelle, and the rest Sauvignon Blanc.  The Filhot was authentic to style, with barley-sugar, lime-juice, some candle-wax, and light phenolic characters. The Coutet was darker in colour, but brighter.  Orange-blossom was its main character with some supporting pineapple. The Coutet was certainly more powerful, richer and sweeter. Its texture was a delight – supple and mouthfilling. Its weakness was that there was some bitterness, and some coarseness. My impression was there was some errant rot as well as botrytis.

2 2005 sauternes

The Filhot was more straightforward, but highly enjoyable, and it represents fantastic value. I have previously pleasantly surprised by the 2001 Ch Filhot, and the common factor is that these were both excellent years for sweet wines from Bordeaux. I will watch for 2009 and 2010.

2005 Ch Filhot – drink now-2025, score 92

2005 Ch Coutet- drink now-2025, score 87

1993 Stanton and Killeen Jack’s block Vintage fortified 18.6%

Dark ruby colour, my key observation of the wine was its slinky, and gentle. It’s a drier style but clearly Australian. Its packed with fine chalky tannins and flavours running from cocoa, fruitcake and dried fruits, dark berries and light mocha flavours. The spirit is appropriate and balanced. This wine is an outstanding example of an aged vintage fortified, with plenty in reserve for the future.

Its from Rutherglen, 90% Shiraz with some minor contributions from Durif and Touriga, a terrific wine made by the late Chris Killeen.

Drink to 2025, score 95 points.

NV Penfolds Father (Grand) Tawny 18.5%

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Its not always easy to adapt existing brands to cater for the fairly recent Australian classifications of “grand “and “rare” that have – at last- infiltrated Australian fortified wines.

Penfolds had a flagship “Grandfather”, now labelled and classified as “rare tawny” (the label Port has been thankfully dropped).

This left an interesting problem for the newly badged (and cheaper) “Father” which has the classification of “Grand”. All clear now?? This wine probably is a smarter version of the Penfolds Bluestone. Penfolds also produces a Great Grandfather- probably labelled as “museum”.

penfolds father

Its colour is amber/pale ruby with some orange tinting on the rim, bright and clear. It’s a class act for a minimum age 10 year material; with vanilla, light jersey caramel and hazelnut prominent. Its superbly balanced on the palate with clean rancio (label states low-strength spirit was used). Its immaculately constructed with a flavours that linger. Even though I paid just over $30, its terrific VFM for this standard. Its not too rich; its not too sweet, and goodness it compels more sipping.

One of my theories is that large companies try harder when they launch a new label; this fits!

Drink now, score 93.