Experience with the style (more than 40 vintages) helps; these are not Sauternes copies; they are typically significantly richer and sweeter – but the usual food matches still work – a simple dessert, or mixed fruits, or a tea cake; or merely an indulgent drink in its own right.

Making this style of wine is full of dramas – watching the weather, testing and tasting as the grapes ripen, hoping to avoid errant (non-noble) moulds; crushing, pressing, fermenting the wine cleanly as yeasts struggle with the high sugar levels; tank and barrel maturation, blending and bottling. There’s a lot of care, and plenty of scope for little decisions that make a lot of difference.

These wines both have amazing results in meaningful wine shows, and the prices are ridiculously, ludicrously affordable for the thrilling quality and enjoyment provided by each glass. It was a terrific, luxurious exercise to try these related wines side-by-side over several evenings.

2021 de Bortoli Deen vat 5 Botrytis semillon 9.5%
Riverina, NSW

A bright gold colour; then apricot, mixed tropical fruits and cumquat; the wine is ultra-refreshing, with mixed spices and a smidge of oak showing. It has a winning, sleek honeyed texture and enough balanced acidity to carry the sugar. The taste sensations linger away.  This is the “junior” version of Noble One, but no slouch in its own right. Its pleasure factor is amazing, and the price for a half bottle (under $20) is a steal.

Drink to 2033, and 92 points (I was tempted to add one point for great value)

2021 De Bortoli Noble One botrytis semillon 10%
Riverina, NSW

Again, a bright gold colour, very slightly deeper than the “Deen”; more vanilla shows, with stonefruits, white peach, tangerine, honey and sweet spices. The palate is seriously structured, with more complexity and subtlety than the “Deen”. It has greater citrus drive and persistence, with greater fruit depth and intensity. Brilliantly assembled, the oak has been absorbed by the forceful fruit; it absolutely rewards contemplation, and is utterly enjoyable. It’s also a stimulating bargain at around $35 for a half-bottle, and given its freshness, has plenty of time ahead.

Drink to 2038, and 94 points