Riesling riot (Melbourne – 8 Feb 2015)

What great opportunity to try a big, big range of Riesling, mainly 2014 which have turned out very well indeed.

There was .almost enough room between the exhibitors, and very nearly, almost enough spittoons. Some producers put on older wines, and geographically included usa, Austria, Germany, NZ and Oz. Finally there was plenty of food – not just cheeses, but bread, meats, and oysters. Best of all, the food was included in the ticket price. Now if I only could have had a latte….

I tried 87 wines in just over 2 hours, and there were plenty I didn’t get to

Impressions, alphabetically

Brundlmayer (austria) You get what you pay for, the best of the 3 wines was the 2013 “reserve” – superb wine

Cherubino. I don’t have much experience with Larry’s wines but the 2014 Porongorups was ultra-fine and expressive

Crawford river; 2013 was a brilliant wine

Donnhof (nahe) 2013 Oberhauser Leisterberg Kabinett, was delicious

DR Loosen; again you get what you pay for, The 2013 Wehelener Sonnenuhr Kabinett was a step up on the bernkastler Lay Kabinett; the ws spatlese a further advance- gorgeous.

Eden Hall. Liked the 2014 and 2010, did not like the 2011.

Egon Muller (mosel) Their wines can be frighteningly expensive, as might be expected from their place in the hierarchy of German wines 2013 Scharzhof Kabinett and 2013  Spatlese were terrific

Framingham (NZ) There were 2 wines I actively disliked; but the 2013 “classic: and even more so the 2014 Noble (with notes of ginger and limes) – were very very good

Mt Horrocks. Another winery whose wines I only know via reputation. 2014 and the 2014 Cordon cut – in particular- were very impressive.

Henschke – 2014 “julius” is a super fresh, ultra-aromatic wine.

Hugel – Kudos for showing 08, 09 and 10 Jubilee Riesling. Of these the 10 was by far the best – rich and mouth-filling

Jim Barry; 2014 Lodge Hill clearly superior to their standard, and great value; the 2013 Florita is a distinguished vineyard and a wine with power still to uncoil; the 2007 Florita is at a nice “in-between” stage; fresh but showing some development.

Knappstein; a range of single sites, of which the 2014 Ackland was utter classical Clare limes; the others Bryskys Hill. Slate Creek and the Insider were lesser wines (the latter 2 with some skin contact, which in my view didn’t help, adds to texture but I think coarsens the bouquet.)

Mitchell -Under-rated! A terrific set from the standard 2014, a 2006 and the special block 2007 mcNicol.

Mt Majura (Canberra) 2014 pristine, and a 2005 was still amazingly fresh

O’leary walker; I preferred the 2014 Waterville to the Polish Hill; its denser and more powerful. The one-off 2012 cane cut was a wine of exotic spices and potpourri; another gram of acid would make this a killer.

Peter Lehman, As expected, the 2009 Wigan was a smart wine; but the 2014 H&V is the “almost-Wigan” and is another great value Riesling

Pikes -Great show results recently; the awesome 2014 Merle leaves the -pretty damn good- standard in its wake. Neil recommends his 2002, 2005, and 2012 wines as his favourites. The 2014 Gaelic Cemetery is more phenolic, but the “black” has the fruit density to carry t.

Pressing Matters (tasmania) Great press, great show results too; the 2012 R9 is stunning.

Robert Weil (rheingau) Can do no wrong, The 2013 Grafenberg GG shows how good a slow-ripened Riesling can be- not likely to be cheap!

Rebholz (pfalz)-I preferred the 2011 GG to the 2012 GG; packed with stony mineral flavors combined with delicate refined palate. Stylish, possibly even affordable….

Treasury; 2014 is the year of musk and sherbet; 2014 Leonay Eden Valley just had more finesse than the reliable standard Eden Valley. If you want a wine to confound people, I was thrilled with the 2013 “Leopold” from Tasmania; just like a crunchy Granny Smith apple, searing acid.

2013 Seppelt Great Western – a cellar-door only wine, packed with minerals and some well-judged residual sugar- will be long lived.

Vickery The man is a legend, but the 2 2014 wines did not have the “x” factor.

Wilson. Another excellent set of wines with the 2014 “wilson” better than the watervale or DJW.

Wines by KT. The 2014 “churinga” had real drive and power. Yum

PS – Spoke with a number of the OS contingent; even though some of their wines are under screwcap, I think in the hearts they think Aussies are a bit weird in their preference for screwcap; its also possible that the winemakers don’t want corks but are outgunned by the marketing arms

Some education on a bottling line

bottling line

Its been roughly 25 years since I learned of the heartbreak and processes involved in bottling wines, and I was overdue some further education on a portable line (one that moves form winery to winery) The winemaker prepares the wine, supplies bottles, capsules, label, cartons, and the machinery takes over (to provide membrane filtration and fill the bottles). This still means that very repetitive manual labour has to

  • Load empty bottles onto the conveyer
  • Assemble cartons and inserts
  • Pack the filled bottles into cartons
  • Load cartons onto pallets

Each task is tough.

The pace is relentless.  So, sore back, sore feet, sore hands and a more modern understanding of the exercise.

Gambero Rossi 3 bicheri (3 glasses) tasting in Melbourne

Gambero Rossi has many tasting panels that assess 40,000 wines from 70-odd regions of Italy. The best of these are re-assessed and may be awarded 1,2  or 3 glasses (aprox 423 wines) . There is a worldwide roadshow at 30 cities of a selection of these wines, and for the first time, this came to Melbourne.

The event was held at the Windsor hotel, and after tasting many of the wines,  I was able to attend a masterclass hosted by the ebullient Marco Sabellico with Max Allen conscripted onto the panel with interjections from Jane Faulkner.

What did I learn?

  1. Well, Prosecco is not really to my taste. There were disconcerting esters, verging on banana common to most of these wines. This is likely to be varietal, but didn’t help my appreciation. I suspect there is no brand loyalty, and Prosecco in the buying public mind is similar to “water”, something generic and inoffensive.
  2. Lambrusco is not at all to my taste. Interestingly, its not vitis Vinifera, but something else. Anyway, the few I tasted had a “foxiness” and lactic angles that I found unappealing. Others may be able to appreciate the spices and tannins behind the mask.
  3. I have held a prejudice against Italian white wines, believing them to be poorly made, or possessing overwhelming neutrality of flavour, and more a curio not representing value-for-money. Verdict- need to reassess!
  4. 2010 is a fantastic vintage for red wines. There has been unusual excitement with 2010 Barolo, and the 2010 Brunellos offers are emerging. People who have extensive tasting experience suggest its the best vintage since 1990.

Highlights

AA Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Riserva 2011 (alto aldige)

Lively, textured, pears and nettles, supreme balance and will keep.  A white wine of enormous interest

Colle Massari Montecucco Sangiovese Lombrone Riserva 2010

Medium- bodied, but superb balance and a true savoury style. Dark chocolates, Bravo!

Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella 2010

Amarone can be a bit weird, with dangers of botrytis intrusions, oxidation, high alcohol and some pruney or burnt/dead fruit. When it works however it activates your senses and is thrilling! This wine was dense, rich and ripe, with some pine-like elements on the bouquet, Beautiful and complex, with a long future

Congratulations to the team – the organisation and the importers. There was plenty of room, plenty of spittoons, and plenty of food – including coffee. The only quibble was the very ordinary tasting glasses supplied.

Hello everyone

This is the start of my wine blog, mainly about sweet wines – or more exactly wines that contain some residual sugar. This means I can legitimately include sparkling wines, white wines and fortified wines.

But of course I’ll cheat and include red wines, and dry whites that excite me.