1981 All Saints Vintage Port

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This was a recent auction purchase, so I am doing myself no favours by recommending this wine.

1981 all saints vp

It looks like a “lab label”, complete with a minor spelling mistake for the eagle-eyed. The cork has performed its duty.

All Saints is located near Rutherglen (albeit nearer Wahgunyah). Its history is replete with numerous label, marketing and winemaking changes, and it’s now run as an independent spin-off from Brown Brothers. But there was never any doubt about its store of old material. I recall my parents staying at the Riverside Motel, and All Saints was always one of our destinations; down the long tree-lined gravel road, through to the amazing castle-like façade; inside the gloom, coolness and numerous large barrels, before tackling a vast range of wines of bewildering quality, from forgettable to sensational.

The Vintage ports from All Saints have held up remarkably well, with excellent recent tasting results going back to the 1960’s.

This wine is Shiraz based, and it’s colour is a medium density brick red, with some definite browning. (and minimal sediment). Yet it is still full of character – there is ripe plummy fruit, gentle mocha flavours with a touch of raisin, and the fruit has coped with the spirit. Not as sweet as many, it’s a wine of civility that is drinking admirably, with lingering crisp acidity.

There is no capacity for improvement, but at 35 years, its ready!

Drink to 2020 (although it will hold), score 90 points

2001 Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Hengst 14.5%

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Obsessive readers will recall an earlier post (May 2015) when I tasted the 2002 edition of this wine. Alsace wines are often “manly” and Zind Humbrecht is typically at the extremely powerful end. Hengst is one of the too-numerous Alsace grand cru sites. The colour is a bright brassy gold, but very respectable for a wine that is 15 years old (and the long cork has performed its duty).  Alas, the tall  bottle is ridiculously heavy. The wine however presents with archetype dark honey, musk and rose-petal aromas.

zh 2001

Alsace is situated near the border of France and Germany, meaning its history is littered with changes of nationality. On one of the occasions I visited this scenic area, the couple who owned the B&B spoke to each other in different languages – they understood both, but each preferred to speak in a different one!

Meanwhile, the palate is lush and ripe (guessing 40 g/l sugar), oily, honeyed, with apricot, other ripe stonefruits, camphor and unashamed phenolics.  Gewurztraminer is a wine of distinct intrigue, but usually one glass is quite enough. This bottle passes this hurdle admirably, despite nearing the end of its drinking span – and it probably would have been better a few years ago. The acidity has ensured the sweetness does not cloy, and the wine possesses “drinkability”.

Drink to 2018, score 90.

FYI, the vintage rating chart published by Alsace producer Hugel is here

Hall of shame (cork problems in 2015)

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I have kept a tally of wines opened and any problems for several years (see the page on corks and statistics).  I have counted only my own wines, not wines from functions where I cannot be certain of “discards” before they were served. I have also excluded from my tally any wine likely to be too old, nor have I included faults such as Brett.

The faults included are TCA (“corked”) and oxidation (bruised apple, or madeirisation). I don’t claim that I am particularly observant or overly sensitive to these issues; I have probably been lenient.

I have found no problems with any wines I have opened under diam, screwcap or crown seal – except for one diam line viewed as a fault at bottling or in preparation for bottling. One further (cork-sealed) wine was excluded as  I assessed the problem was heat damage in transport or storage (an auction purchase).

No producer sets out to make wines that may fail due to their closure; however, it is the problem of the consumer to attempt to gain a refund or recompense for wines that may have been treasured for years. Some customers no doubt try to abuse this, but often return and checking procedures are overly onerous (or non-existent) often merely to obtain a replacement with a “current vintage”.

Here is the list of problem wines in 2015, and the outcome

  • Domaine Stirn (alsace) 2005 Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz  – oxidised
  • Tardieu Laurent (N Rhone) 1999 Hermitage – TCA
  • Louis Sipp (Alsace) 2004 Riesling Osterberg – oxidised
  • JL Chave (n Rhone) 1995 Marsanne – oxidised
  • Veuve Clicquot (Champagne) 2004 – TCA – replaced by vendor
  • F Gueguen (Chablis) 2007 Bourgros – oxidised– credited by importer
  • Craiglee (Sunbury) NV Sparkling red – TCA – replaced by winery
  • Kreglinger (Tasmania) 2005 sparkling– TCA – replaced by distributor
  • Domaine Stirn (Alsace) 2007 Riesling Brand – TCA

The “headline number” for 2015 is 7.44% problems with wines with a cork seal – which continues to be well above industry claims of 2-5% – in itself still a dreadful indictment.  Even more personally distressing is the disproportionate number, and percentage of problems with imported wines.

Importers could perform a useful role by encouraging their producers to move to screwcap (or diam), and could easily publicise which product lines have this benefit.  This simple step would – at least- encourage me to purchase more Champagne (where the cork is concealed by the foil).

Tyson Stelzer’s latest Champagne Guide 2016-2017 thankfully includes some information on producers using diam. Tyson believes cork taint is a small problem in Champagne – but oxidation is the main issue.

Importers should also have a simple return and replacement policy – I have been met by the extraordinary comment “our margins don’t allow for replacements”.

Consumers should try to keep bottle and contents, plus the cork, and be vigorous about trying to obtain replacement – as should be their right.

I hope for many less cork problems in 2016, and wish my readers well. I hope that some of my reviews have encouraged greater consumption and experimentation with off-dry and sweet wines.

2006 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling auslese long goldkap 7%

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Goldkap (or gold capsule) indicates more sweetness, the “long” also shows more; on this bottle the front and back lablels do not display any extra words – at least for this vintage-  so one must look at the capsule colour, and be able to compare with a “standard” Schloss Lieser auslese goldkap. Trust me on this until I find other bottles and display a comparison photograph.

Golden in colour, with dusty botrytis and apricot marmalade notes present. Viscous with oranges, grass and green nettle joust with the very rich melon and stonefruits. 185 g/l residual sugar, yet the trademark Mosel acidity ensures this is a bracingly refreshing and balanced wine with time in reserve. It’s a marvel on how long the flavours dwell in the mouth, teasing to want more pleasure, while the sensory gratification still lingers.

2006 schloss aus lgk

What is an appropriate food – if any- to accompany this wine? Avoid anything creamy – have a fresh fruit platter, or a fruit tart, but leave plenty of time for contemplation and admiration.

Drink to 2028, score 94.

Two from Barsac (14%) and a fortified

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The two sweet white wines were served masked,  both from 2005, and were Chateau Filhot, and Chateau Coutet. Both are Semillon dominant (Filhot 60%, Coutet 75%, each with a smidgeon of Muscadelle, and the rest Sauvignon Blanc.  The Filhot was authentic to style, with barley-sugar, lime-juice, some candle-wax, and light phenolic characters. The Coutet was darker in colour, but brighter.  Orange-blossom was its main character with some supporting pineapple. The Coutet was certainly more powerful, richer and sweeter. Its texture was a delight – supple and mouthfilling. Its weakness was that there was some bitterness, and some coarseness. My impression was there was some errant rot as well as botrytis.

2 2005 sauternes

The Filhot was more straightforward, but highly enjoyable, and it represents fantastic value. I have previously pleasantly surprised by the 2001 Ch Filhot, and the common factor is that these were both excellent years for sweet wines from Bordeaux. I will watch for 2009 and 2010.

2005 Ch Filhot – drink now-2025, score 92

2005 Ch Coutet- drink now-2025, score 87

1993 Stanton and Killeen Jack’s block Vintage fortified 18.6%

Dark ruby colour, my key observation of the wine was its slinky, and gentle. It’s a drier style but clearly Australian. Its packed with fine chalky tannins and flavours running from cocoa, fruitcake and dried fruits, dark berries and light mocha flavours. The spirit is appropriate and balanced. This wine is an outstanding example of an aged vintage fortified, with plenty in reserve for the future.

Its from Rutherglen, 90% Shiraz with some minor contributions from Durif and Touriga, a terrific wine made by the late Chris Killeen.

Drink to 2025, score 95 points.

NV Penfolds Father (Grand) Tawny 18.5%

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Its not always easy to adapt existing brands to cater for the fairly recent Australian classifications of “grand “and “rare” that have – at last- infiltrated Australian fortified wines.

Penfolds had a flagship “Grandfather”, now labelled and classified as “rare tawny” (the label Port has been thankfully dropped).

This left an interesting problem for the newly badged (and cheaper) “Father” which has the classification of “Grand”. All clear now?? This wine probably is a smarter version of the Penfolds Bluestone. Penfolds also produces a Great Grandfather- probably labelled as “museum”.

penfolds father

Its colour is amber/pale ruby with some orange tinting on the rim, bright and clear. It’s a class act for a minimum age 10 year material; with vanilla, light jersey caramel and hazelnut prominent. Its superbly balanced on the palate with clean rancio (label states low-strength spirit was used). Its immaculately constructed with a flavours that linger. Even though I paid just over $30, its terrific VFM for this standard. Its not too rich; its not too sweet, and goodness it compels more sipping.

One of my theories is that large companies try harder when they launch a new label; this fits!

Drink now, score 93.

2003 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 8%

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This was a strikingly hot year in Europe, which took many producers by surprise, rushing to pick grapes before they became over-ripe and lost acidity, plus dealing with hot grapes, refrigeration issues and the usual vintage problems of not enough fermenters of the correct size.

loosen 2003

The Mosel was not immune to these difficulties. This wine is not quite “entry-level” but it routinely provides excellent typificity and VFM. It’s a light straw colour, and its aromatics of lime-juice, citrus, and Jonathan apple burst from the glass. There are some earthy undertones and pebbly/slatey elements too, while some mango is evident on the palate.  There is enough acidity to make this a very refreshing wine, and no kero, despite clear bottle-aged characters of light toast.

Its another lesson in the longevity of these flavorsome low-alcohol wines, and a tribute to the skills of Ernie Loosen and his team to triumph over the adverse conditions of the vintage.

Drink to 2017 while the acidity is vibrant, and score is 90 points.

Champagne – some personal education

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I went to an event recently, with the guidance of Sommeliers Australia, the Champagne Bureau and some previous winners of the Vin de Champagne awards, notably Kate McIntyre MW. After an intro mainly on Champagne terroir, plus tips about not swirling, we began with a bracket of Blancs de Blancs, so we could identify more positively Chardonnay influences. Usefully we began seeking apple characters, melon and a linear acid profile.

No scores, as time was not kind, and I was busy listening and thinking. I expect bottle variation (cork, disgorgement, and storage) may vary results.

Nv Pommery “summertime”. 3 years on lees, 9g/l rs. It’s a party! The doughiest, with bread, lemon and spices. No complaints

2006 Jacquart. Pale, finer style, steel and minerals, waxiness too

2004 Taittinger Comptes. Ultra-fine and all class. Tight, really mouthfilling. Certainly my preferred wine in this small set. It will be super in a few years.

Then we looked at some wines with Pinot Noir and Pinot meunier in the blend; looking for different aromas; acid profile more rounded, and greater texture. Some believe red apple is a pinot meunier pointer.

NV Henriot Brut Souverain; 50/50 Chard/PN; red berries, rose-petal; fluffy. Smart

NV Charles Heidsieck; 1/3 each PN, PM, Chard. Chalk and charcuterie; my preferred wine here but faded slightly as it aired and warmed – perhaps won’t be long-lived

2006 Moet. 42% chard, 39% PN, 19% PM 5g/l rs.  I didn’t like this; too reductive, a fair bit of “animal” and seemed a bit attenuated. Certainly more interesting than the ocean of Moet NV.

Then some rose styles. I’ve resisted purchase in the past as they don’t seem to represent VFM, and I’ve have had some oxidation problems – but I am mightily impressed with results when it works. Very food-friendly- fish, chicken, cheese, light desserts….

NV Lanson Rose– a pale orange colour, strawberries and some cold tea – but straightforward. No malo, so some may find the acidity overdone (not me). It’s value!

NV Bollinger Rose. Salmon colour, fine texture, candied fruits, fresh with some refreshing and added-interest phenolics – maybe better with less dosage.

NV Roederer Rose. My favourite in this bracket and overall on the day. Pale salmon colour, strawberries, finesse, purity, length (no malo). Seductive.

There was brief discussion about whether zero dosage was a fad – there is a general trend towards reducing dosage levels with larger companies performing this gradually so as not to frighten their market. The larger houses have the benefits of  blending options from multiple sites and stocks of reserve wines; the downside is perhaps some blandness in their NV offerings. Growers may be less consistent. There was very brief discussion about mlf and oak treatments – but nothing on seals. Acidity was another factor discussed.

The wines selected were all from larger houses rather than the smaller growers that we are seeing now in Australia, but it was enlightening to see a range of Champagne rather than just one or two. To my great surprise, Australia is the 5th largest Champagne consumer in the world (not per head, but in total), so we are significant.

All up, a quite terrifying overview of the complexities within Champagne, and another budget temptation with the rose styles.

1994 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 20.5%

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Very densely coloured, with tell-tale camphor and light liquorice, but with the Portuguese tannin bite; almonds and bergamot (earl grey). Mouthfilling, fine but slightly furry, spices in a complete package. Long palate finishing slightly warm. Decanting would have settled this wine, but all-around delicious

94 qdv

Drink to 2030; score 92

Campbell’s “1870” sparkling shiraz 14%

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With a crown seal – hooray.  This was a one-off from Campbells of Rutherglen released a few years back that we paid $55 for- must have been in a good mood. (so its more serious than the Campbells $30 nv sparkling red).

The label claims its blended from vintages going back 40 years – likely Shiraz. Its vigorous in the glass, deeply coloured, lightening on the rim. It boasts an array of savoury, earthy scents – mulberry and perhaps aniseed, and old leather, with a faint touch of mushroom . The palate mirrors this, thankfully drier than most wines made in this style, with clean acidity, and welcome creaminess.  Residual sugar is difficult with sparkling reds- I think around 15 g/l is needed to balance the tannins; more than 25 is unwelcome; guessing that is around 20g/l.

nv campbells sparkling red

Another glass beckons….. yes there are wines with better QPR , but well worth a try.

Drink now- 2020, score 89 (92 with duck!)