1975 Baileys Bundarra Vintage Port

There are wines that are difficult to assess objectively. Wines from Baileys present this issue to me, for a raft of sentimental reasons. In the heartland of Ned Kelly country near Glenrowan in Victoria, Baileys is a winery that I travelled to with my parents, then with my family and children. We often seemed to visit partly to break the journey north, and my memories recall many a sweltering day, when the winery provided temporary relief from the un-airconditioned car. Inside was dark and blessedly cooler. The counter was typically set with a large range of whites, reds and an impressive range of fortified wines including the “founder” range. The general instruction was “start at that end and keep going”.

My visits covered a range of winemakers including Harry Tinson, Steve Goodwin and more recently Paul Dahlenberg, and the usual problem was to limit purchases to either fit the available budget, or avoid taking up much space in the car – generally artfully jam- packed for holidays. Down a bunch of narrow roads with turnoffs easy to miss at the speeds travelled. Afterwards there was the classic all-too-brief drive across the scenic Warby ranges with the possibilities of going to Brown Brothers at Milawa, or trying the range of mustards nearby (and the pie shop).

At various times there seemed to be numerous back vintages of Baileys available at very reasonable prices. But the wine in question was purchased at auction perhaps 10 years ago, with the label, level and cork looking pretty good – after all –its now 40 years old!

75 baileys vp

This wine (made by Harry Tinson) had surprisingly little fine sediment; and key impressions were dark, dark red black colours, initially with some hot spirit showing. seeming much younger than it really was. And a typically sweet, old-fashioned Australian vintage fortified, BUT with air of generosity; milk chocolates, cocoa, chalk,  and a long-lasting fruitcake palate. The spirit settled, the fruit emerged from its long sulk, and others at the table had no problems in returning for further sampling. All Shiraz, and while its fully ready, it’s in no danger of collapse and seems to be on a plateau that will provide quite decadent drinking for at least another 10 years.

Drink now to 2030; score (objectively) 90; sentimentally 93

2004 (AP Birks) Wendouree Shiraz Mataro 13%

I don’t only drink or review  wines with some residual sugar, these are not at all my staple drinking fare; but after my the recent digression about mailing lists, it’s time to look at a red wine supported by information from the mailer; “a blend of Shiraz (76%) and Mataro (24%) from 1893 Central and 1920 Eastern vineyard plantings”.  No dispute about vine age –these are old!

The wines Wendouree releases vary in price – this is the cheapest. Mataro is a synonym for Mourvedre – or Monastrell –  (one of the blending varieties of the Southern Rhone Valley, and other areas in France, especially Bandol), and Spain,  with a reputation for being full coloured, full-flavoured, tannic, alcoholic and straightforward. In Australia, Mataro is often one of the blenders with Grenache and Shiraz. Mataro is one of the varieties that suffered under the vine-pull scheme not so many years back in Australia. So this wine is a fairly traditional blend from Wendouree.

2004 wendouree shiraz mataro

And how do you get the best out of Wendouree wines, which don’t always shine in tastings? It helps to have a good year, like 2004 in the Clare Valley (and like most of South Australia). It helps to decant the wine and let it breathe for a few hours. And it helps to put into proper glassware – and after some experimentation, the Zalto burgundy glass works particularly well, bringing out some of the more fruity flavours. James Halliday describes the wines of Wendouree as the epitome of the “velvet first in the iron glove”, with 30 years of cellaring potential almost guaranteed based on the vine age and the restricted yields. My experience is that Wendouree wines can be quite shy and sulky – I used to think of them as being attuned to heroic Pinots, but now believe I think they are more like Nebbiolo in approach.

The cork has done an outstanding job – just as well, as this wine has a long future.

The colour is a dense crimson/black – encouraging in an 11 year old. Dark sour cherry, dried herbs, cola, plum and some mint; the medium- weight palate echoes this and adds chalks plus “rum and raisin” chocolates, and liquorice. Complex. The wine is still quite – pleasantly – tannic, and the (Seguin Moreau) oak is swamped by the fruit intensity.  The old-vines add what I call “slinkiness”. Show judges may be looking for more oak, and for more highlights, but the wine is complete in its expression. Lip-smacking and delicious.

Drink 2020 to 2030, score 93 points.

2005 Dirler Kessler Pinot Gris 14%

Bright clear gold, this Alsatian wine seems quite advanced with low-key but authentic scents of musk, marzipan and almond meal. It’s dense and rich with chalks, flints. Fruit descriptor would be beurre bosc pears. Perhaps 50 g/l residual sugar, and it’s beginning to dry out, but the heroic 14% alcohol doesn’t seem inappropriate. The acidity is adequate, but not quite enough to warrant further cellaring (although Pinot Gris is a notorious low acid variety).

2005 dirler pg

Grimly, another instance of a Grand Cru site, but somewhat disappointing for a wine labelled at this standard.

Drink now- 2017, score 86

Winery mailing lists, then and now

I have been diligently removing myself from winery mailing lists for a few years, but when I began indulging in wine, it was exciting to receive the ramblings. Here’s some background on a few that continually piqued my interest.

Mount Mary – Mailers started out as little more than a price list with a brief description of the available wines, but Dr John Middleton adventured these into pamphlets packed with philosophy, history, education, musings on taxation, retailing and so on. The print seemed to get smaller and the brochure longer.  A newsletter full of character, pungency and wit. Always interesting – even the parts I could understand and disagree with.

Mount Mary had a waiting list before you could join the mailing list, and the most restricted wine was the Pinot Noir. People rushed to return their orders as fast as possible, with Mt Mary desperate to stop faxes and couriers molesting them. On release and tasting days there were queues, and people purchasing everything they could up to the limits. John was distraught at customers that “flipped” his wines to retailers and auction houses soon after the wines became available.

And for a while there was gewürztraminer.

Once I made an appointment to see John, and was surprised to see him mowing the lawn in a very tattered machine. Another time, he generously donated a bottle of his prized Quintet to some impoverished (but wine-interested) University students. Once I enquired about getting a magnum, and this was cheerfully aranged – after I had supplied an empty magnum-sized bottle.

Pipers Brook – Dr Andrew Pirie’s release newsletters were also vibrant, with part of the novelty being that the wines came from Tasmania. The newsletters highlighted the (painfully) small volumes available, sometimes offering very mixed packs, as volumes of newer varietals came on-stream, and different bottlings from varied special block selections were made.

(AP Birks) Wendouree – Another winery with a waiting list before  customers progressed to the mailing list; and curiously the order forms carry marks indicating the longevity and worthiness of the customer. Customers may get their order quantities adjusted (downwards).

The format of the newsletter has not changed, and reads in essence “the following wines grown made and bottled at the estate are now available”, followed by blend proportions and age of vineyards. Appealing in its apparent simplicity, and for all their renown the wines remain very reasonably priced.

When I toured a few years ago, Tony Brady pointed me toward one of the vineyards and laconically said “watch out for snakes”. If you visit, make sure to view the small, immaculately constructed shelves holding their stock of museum wines.

Baileys of Glenrowan – Readers could easily discern Harry Tinson’s heroic struggle to describe his new wines, and his restiveness to improve their quality each year. The newsletter was modest in tone, but the wines certainly spoke of their place. The area had imposed an enormous stamp on Harry and he reciprocated.

Moss Wood – Newsletters began simply, but blossomed into artworks, describing in great detail various technical tweaks in viticulture and winemaking, plus fabulous tables of vintage ratings and comparisons. Having correctly planted Margaret River’s strength with Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Moss Wood persevered with 2 Semillons and Pinot Noir. Now they have multiple sites to choose from, with greater blending and varietal options.


Now, we are in the world of the internet, and emails and websites have largely replaced snail mail.  The newer technology means potential for more photographs, updated reviews, blogs etc. The downside here is greater opportunity for marketers to go ballistic, and for web designers to inflict illogical and obtrusive designs. But I have hoarded some of these old paper newsletters to trigger the voyages along memory lane.

2007 Okonomierat Rebholz Von Buntsandstein (sandstone) Riesling spatlese 7.5 %

From the Pfalz area of Germany – not as highly regarded as the Mosel, but not to be dismissed. A lovely “low-tech” label that suggests its hand-written (artisanal).

2007 rebholz

Gosh this is so easy, indeed dangerous to drink. It’s a light gold colour, with the usual suspects making their welcome appearance on the bouquet – an assortment of varied tropical fruits including mango, pineapple, and other non-tropical fruits including red apple and grapefruit. There is viscosity, mixed spices, an appealing amount of sweetness for a spatlese-style (at least) , and its clearly, and cleanly Riesling.

What an excellent match for a wide range of food- and it worked especially well with tandoori chicken and mushroom risotto.

It is not the most complex wine you will strike and there is no improvement in front of it, but its always righteous to strike a delicious wine at its peak.

Drink to 2018, score 89.

1967 Leo Buring P35 Vintage Port

Served masked, my guess was 1971, but bravo for another 48 year old wine.

Liquorice and some malt, blackberry, musk, and abundant rampant mocha, lush and sweet; powdery tannins and still cleansing acidity.  Clean and integrated spirit. Powdery, rich fruit, some raisin development, dark liquorice and great fruit length. Succulent, in great condition, complex and a treat to drink.

leo b vp

Its quite likely that the 1,75 on the label was the original price – in dollars

McLaren Vale grapes, source of many of the great Aussie VP’s. Leo Burings of course were best regarded for their Rieslings under legendary winemaker John Vickery; but clearly they had talents for other wine styles.

Drink now to 2025 (for best bottles), score 93 points

 

Chardonnays at Oakridge (Yarra Valley, Victoria)

Oakridge has just picked up a few trophies for Chardonnay at the recent  Melbourne Wine Show. David Donald very knowledgably walked me through a terrific selection of the Oakridge wines.

Oakridge has the luxury of releasing perhaps 6 different Chardonnays, from several sites, and blocks within these sites. The “864” range sits at about twice the price of the LVS (local vineyard series. All the wines are made from the same clone, no malo, and are low-oaked. This does not mean they are mean or lean.

The 2013 Willowlake Chardonnay showed neat melon-rind aspects, but the 2013 Guerin had more energy, fluffy texture and citrus drive. I was contemplating purchase until I tried the multi—trophy 2013 Barkala ridge; apart from the gunflint araomatics, it had more density, savouriness and a pebbly saline edge, while still clearly Chardonnay. Very fine and an easy buy ($36). My usual Oakridge “go-to” is Lusatia Park, but its not released yet.

Two different 2013 “864” Chardonnays, “Lusatia” block A, and ”F&D drive block” came next. I admired them side-by-side; both with defined minerals, length and citrus, I preferred the more embryonic and less funky Lusatia, but both sit in the vanguard of Australian Chardonnay, and at $75 (or less if careful) are fairly priced.

The track record of the age-worthiness of these wines (I have recently drunk 2006 and 2009 examples), and compelling ongoing  wine show results are encouraging – and well-deserved. If you haven’t experienced Oakridge Chardonnay, “do yourself a favour”.

After this display of Chardonnay brilliance, any wines to follow would truly be a let-down, but the “864 Lusatia Park” Pinot Noir was a flashy floral macerated liqueur cherry style, and the 2014 Shiraz was an exhibition in wild red berry and raspberry; fine chocolates and a tow of fine tannins lurking.

German Riesling bargains

2012 Dr Loosen Bernkastler Lay Riesling Kabinett 8% (Mosel)

Crisp clear bright pale colour, showing voluptuous creamy red apples and slatey characters, this wine is Kabinett-labelled, but a few years ago would have been called Spatlese. Where apart from the Mosel can you get full-flavored, varietal and feather-light textured wines at such low alcohol? Probably >50 g rs, the wine is delicate, with resounding acidity and completely delicious. Astonishingly, its almost entry-level for Dr Loosen. And a well-known Australian online retailer has this wine in stock for a tick under $30 – sensational value- and under screwcap as a bonus.

Drink to 2022 (at any time of day or night), score 92 points

2012 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 9.5 % (nahe)

The Nahe is a tiny area not far from the Mosel region, and Donnhoff is one of the well-known stars. This wine was almost as pleasurable as the previous wine. It exhibited more lime cordial and yellow fruit character, and texturally seemed finer, albeit with some slight phenolic grip. Again the acidity propels the wine to effortless length. The online retailer has this wine for just under $40, which also represents good value, especially under screwcap.

Drink to 2025, score 91 points

2006 Noon VP (vintage port) 18%

First thing to notice is the bottle – 500ml but a narrow, towering cylinder that is difficult to store; nice label, nice name. Its 100% grenache from McLaren Vale in South Australia. Thankfully its cork has performed its function. It certainly needed decanting, as there was a pile of  sediment.

noon vp

Its not the deepest of colours; a dark ruby seems to fit; its bouquet is full of liquorice, rose petal and eucalypt. There is sweet but balanced spirit, and its eerily reminiscent of some old Reynella VPs – minus the extreme blackberry, and of course they were Shiraz based. It’s a slightly malty milk chocolate style with the sweetness and relative lack of tannins holding it back. Cleverly constructed, and an excellent “welcome back” to Australia.

Drink to 2025, score 87 points

a few Sauternes and Barsac

laf and doisy

Bill Blatch has a marvellous site on this wine style http://bordeauxgold.com/bill-blatch/

2001 Ch lafaurie-peyraguey (sauternes 13.5%)

from half-bottle; 90% Semillon, 5% sav blanc, 5% muscadelle. Quite an advanced dark gold colour; waxy, “skinsy”, smoky oak and nuts over ripe apricots, lemons some bitterness present, and another example from an excellent year for sweet wines.

Drink to 2022; score 91

2005 Ch Doisy-daene (barsac 14%)

From half-bottle; 95% Semillon, 170 g/l rs. Lighter colour, lighter elegant style; barley sugar, prominent acidity, passionfruit and orange blossom. Amazingly, seems not as sweet as the L-P, but  all in balance. More time will be rewarding.

Drink to 2025, score 92+

roumieu

2010 Ch Roumieu

A producer I haven’t tasted before – these two wines were served blind.

Bright light pale straw colour, syrupy sweet, tropical fruit, stonefruits and pineapple, with an overlay of green nettles, almost a celery. Tightly wound with abundant cleansing acidity.

Drink now-2025, score 90

1970 Ch Roumieu

Colour suggests the wine is clearly older, and exudes some petroleum and light toffee characters. Some waxiness on the palate and there is still fruit and acid, but slimmed down. While this wine has seen better days, the contrast is quite enjoyable. Seems about 25 years older.

Unmasked, same company but 40! years older. I’m amazed at this.

Drink now, score 87 (I have not added any points for surprise at its drinkability at such an age)