Noble One

Another De Bortoli Botrytis semillon pair (half-bottles)

~ Richard ~ Leave a comment

Experience with the style (more than 40 vintages) helps; these are not Sauternes copies; they are typically significantly richer and sweeter – but the usual food matches still work – a simple dessert, or mixed fruits, or a tea cake; or merely an indulgent drink in its own right.

Making this style of wine is full of dramas – watching the weather, testing and tasting as the grapes ripen, hoping to avoid errant (non-noble) moulds; crushing, pressing, fermenting the wine cleanly as yeasts struggle with the high sugar levels; tank and barrel maturation, blending and bottling. There’s a lot of care, and plenty of scope for little decisions that make a lot of difference.

These wines both have amazing results in meaningful wine shows, and the prices are ridiculously, ludicrously affordable for the thrilling quality and enjoyment provided by each glass. It was a terrific, luxurious exercise to try these related wines side-by-side over several evenings.

2021 de Bortoli Deen vat 5 Botrytis semillon 9.5%
Riverina, NSW

A bright gold colour; then apricot, mixed tropical fruits and cumquat; the wine is ultra-refreshing, with mixed spices and a smidge of oak showing. It has a winning, sleek honeyed texture and enough balanced acidity to carry the sugar. The taste sensations linger away.  This is the “junior” version of Noble One, but no slouch in its own right. Its pleasure factor is amazing, and the price for a half bottle (under $20) is a steal.

Drink to 2033, and 92 points (I was tempted to add one point for great value)

2021 De Bortoli Noble One botrytis semillon 10%
Riverina, NSW

Again, a bright gold colour, very slightly deeper than the “Deen”; more vanilla shows, with stonefruits, white peach, tangerine, honey and sweet spices. The palate is seriously structured, with more complexity and subtlety than the “Deen”. It has greater citrus drive and persistence, with greater fruit depth and intensity. Brilliantly assembled, the oak has been absorbed by the forceful fruit; it absolutely rewards contemplation, and is utterly enjoyable. It’s also a stimulating bargain at around $35 for a half-bottle, and given its freshness, has plenty of time ahead.

Drink to 2038, and 94 points

Botrytis semillon bargains from De Bortoli

~ Richard ~ Leave a comment

De Bortoli makes so many wines it’s hard to keep up. And a lightning day trip during vintage last year convinced me of their very serious intents. But as well as their Yarra base, plantings at Heathcote, Rutherglen, plus the incredible amount of Prosecco processed, they have a substantial outpost in the irrigated Riverina, (NSW), where a speciality is botrytised Semillon wines.

The 1982 Noble One was a memorable wine, and the line continues to be made with only a few unco-operative vintages. Having picked botrytis Riesling, I can appreciate the stresses involved in weather-watching, picker availability, dodging “less-than-noble rots” plus the challenges in pressing, fermenting, and manoeuvring wines safely into bottle, without excess VA to detract.

Noble One shows its capacity to absorb an amazing quantity of oak; but the wines that piqued my interest recently are the Deen de Bortoli Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon. Sure, it’s a “junior” label that won’t get the best fruit, will see little oak, and get less fanatical winemaking care, but the quality difference is much less dramatic than the price differential. The RRP of $17 half bottle leaves me bewildered at how this is possible, when the wines provide so much character, hedonism and engagement – and have bottle age as well. This pair of wines were made under the stewardship of recently-retired Julie Mortlock (and no doubt Steve Webber continues his strong interest in the line).

I preferred the 2018, and came to no harm drinking a half-glass every few days over a week. My generic match is fresh fruit, but an array of cheeses, or a tea cake will work wonders too.

2017 Deen de Bortoli Vat 5 Botrytis semillon 11.5%
Bright gold colour with some copper. Quince, bitter melon, apricot, cumquat, dark honey, vanilla, nougat. Ready! 158 g/l residual sugar.

Drink to 2027, 90 points

2018 Deen de Bortoli Vat 5 Botrytis semillon 9.5%
Bright deep gold. Apricot, cumquat, vanilla, dried pear, fruit peel, ginger. Absolutely seductive, lingering, generously drenched mouthfeel. My guess on residual sugar was >180g/l. It turned out to be 231 g/l! But wrapped in acidity, there was no cloying. This measure is well into the German BA territory, and will be an excellent sensory assessment exercise for wine students, the curious, and furthermore won’t break the bank.

Drink to 2030, 93 points