2008 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos Habert 13%

From a small appellation opposite Vouvray, this is Chenin Blanc, but not what we are familiar with in Australia. Chris Kissack’s site is a tremendous resource.

Here, Chenin blanc is typically grown in warmer regions; and contributes fairly anonymously in blends where its acidity helps. There are some exceptions (Coriole, Peel Estate, and from New Zealand, Millton) but it’s a slender set of resources. Chenin blanc formerly was a mainstay of Houghton’s White Burgundy (which blossomed with a few years age), and I recall a truly striking 1981 St Leonards botrytis version.

Chidaine has a huge reputation, and I purchased this wine for a bargain price (under $40) a few years ago.


This wine is an exceptional experience; lemon to light gold in colour, it presents an exciting, exotic set of aromas and flavours. Quince, pineapple rind, ripe red apple, lime juice, yellow pear and freshly cut grass are all present,  It’s meshed with perhaps 20 g/l residual sugar which is swallowed by the balanced, refreshing acidity. Lastly, that set of flavours hangs around with a honeyed, thick, textured mouthfeel.

A fabulous match with varied cuisine (many Asian dishes,  fish, white meats) this VFM wine will kick goals for many more years.

Drink to 2030, 95 points


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