I previously assumed  this was a Yalumba wine, but the back label claims the wine was made by Beresford. Anyway, this port-style wine is readily available in Australia for between $30 and $35.

It’s a healthy garnet, bricky colour, and the aromas are full of dried apricot, raisin, roast hazelnut and almond, vanilla bean and mocha. That’s action aplenty!

It claims an average of 12 years age, and this is a complex wine with well-matched brandy spirit, providing rich fruitcake, nuts, rancio and vanilla flavours that unfurl with each sip. The wine is artfully constructed, balancing sweetness, richness and freshness.

In a perfect world I would prefer less of the overt vanillan characters, but the wine is a winning, late-evening drink that will generate enormous enthusiasm at a bargain price.

Drink now, and 93 points.