2008 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett #17, 8%
Spatlese and Auslese get more attention, but there is nothing like the weightless attractions of the Kabinett style. Still a very pale lemon colour, there is a characteristic reductive note, followed by waves of lemon and white peach. The palate is more lime-driven, light honey with red and green apple, plus pear notes wrapped in electric minerality. It’s another wine that defies willpower to insist on further sampling. Sweet, but a wine of joy.

While Mosel Rieslings often look thrilling when young (say for three years), they often proceed through a sulky stage for three to five years, before re-emerging in glory. This wine, like many of its 2008 Mosel brethren has always irresistibly delivered delicious drinking.

Drink to 2030, and 91 points

2007 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkap AP #17, 7.5%
This wine was also a pale colour belying its age. Honey, nettles, yellow peach and green plum were all present; a viscous, rich, decadent palate with spice notes and faint nuttiness intermingled., wrapped in appropriate vibrant pebbly acidity. Radiant, luscious, seductive and visceral.

To 2035, 95 points.