Adelaide Hills, 375ml screwcap and another recent auction purchase. Petaluma and Bridgewater Mill do not appear on the front label; the only concession on the back label a reference to the “B&V vineyard”, and Petaluma in tiny print.

Ridiculously youthful colour; purples and crimsons still. Supple, engaging. Dark chocolate and liquorice, dak crherry, cocoa, blueberry, just a smidge of purple fruits too. Super quality spirit (“old wood-aged brandy”). Ripe fruit, and will  guarantee converts to the style. What more can a wine do? Mingled regrets and happiness; regret that the bottle is too small and has been consumed; happiness both at the meagre price for the pleasure delivered, plus satisfaction that I have a few more of these beautiful half bottles lurking. Astutely judged. Crisp, luscious, memorable. Ten more years easily in prospect.

Drink to 2035 and 93 points