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Mosel musings

~ Richard ~ 1 Comment

Its not easy to take notes when on holidays, and with limited access to the internet. A few thoughts follow. Photos may be added later.

There are dozens of wineries in Bernkastel, and hundreds in the surrounding areas. Most are small, so the wines are not exported. Insider knowledge is needed to determine makers of decent wines. And the larger wineries may make more than 50 different wines each year, so what is available to taste and for sale can cover multiple vintages, sites, levels of quality; and it is certainly not feasible to try every possible wine, so we relied on the abilities of the hosts to take us through a range of wines. Further, although English was spoken everywhere we went (and my partner Robyn is fluent in German) there are only so many questions that can reasonably be asked, and notes scrawled in a limited time. The logistics to get any purchased wines back to Australia are awkward- I felt guilty buying so little.

The Mosel area is based around the  winding Mosel River, so it is quite a long area, with vines planted mostly on “the good side” of the river. This means the wines swap sides as the river meanders. Slopes can be death-defying, and it’s amazing how the vines can be cared for under such conditions. There are many paths suitable for cycling too.

Many wineries are only available to visit by appointment, and the car GPS was invaluable! Once opened, bottles can be safely refrigerated without degrading for at least one week (not a capability I seem to need).

The Mosel has had a dream run without poor vintages since the late 1980’s. This came to a crashing end in 2013 and 2014, vintages that winemakers described as “difficult” or worse. Buy with caution.

A special mention needs to be made of Rieslinghaus (formerly called Porn) in Bernkastel. There were >20 wines available by the glass, of varying vintages, makers etc. In addition, bottles, magnums etc were available for sale at very fair prices and covering again a range of vintages from makers such as JJ Prum, Schloss Lieser, Willi Haag and many more – plus some “auction” wines. This was an excellent resource – although we were busy revisiting wines purchased on our last trip in 2009. And this time around we wanted to try some different makers to gain a portrait of style (previous visits included MF Richter, Willi Schaefer, JJ Prum, R Haart, Dr Loosen).

A few random dinner wines -with scanty impressions included

fe riesling

2004 Trimbach Frederick Emile Riesling – We had to start with a dry wine, and one from Alsace; delightful, pale, spicy, stony, dry. Drink now – 2025, score 93

bernkastel dinner wines

2003 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr spatlese; this was a very hot vintage, and many wineries struggled; Prum described the wines as “sulky” and that the sites would take time to overcome the vintage vagaries – rich, mouthfilling, lush sweet tropical fruits, ready. Drink to 2020, score 90

2004 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr spatlese; very different! Lively acidity and more classical limes, apple and energy. Drink to 2025, score 93

2004 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett; acidity powers this wine; minerals, lively; Here we are with an older Kabinett that will endure for at least another 5 years, but can’t quibble with drinking it; drink to 2020, score 90

2007 R Haart Kreutzwingert Piesporter feinherb 12.5%; Happy to drink this, although its drying out a bit. Red berries, stonefruit, white peach, and orange bitters.  Drink now, score 87

2008 R Haart Goldtropchen Auslese; 2008 seems to be the vintage that never retreated into its shell; this is a very sweet wine where the bottle mysteriously seemed to empty rapidly. I cannot really see further improvement and am happy to drink with its now – although the wine will hold. Drink to 2023, score 91.

2010 Schloss Lieser juffer sonnenuhr spatlese.  A year of high acidity, but once again the wine had the pleasurable balance of acid, sweetness and texture. Drink to 2025, score 93

A tasting at Selbach-Oster (Zeltingen, Mosel)

~ Richard ~ 1 Comment

Selbach-Oster is a well-known estate in Germany, but distribution in Australia (via Nelson’s, Sydney-based) is recent, so I hadn’t tried many of their wines. The estate is 22 hectares, and typically produces 35 different wines each year, covering 7 sites, different classifications. Picking can proceed on the same site several times as well as picking different classifications at the same time – all site –dependent. Wine is quickly pressed, settled and gravity fed into old oak, and some into stainless steel tanks.  Ambient yeasts are used, (cultured yeasts used only if necessary). Fermentation is slow, and cool.

We set out to gain some familiarity with the styles made, with the English-speaking Barbara Selbach.

barbara selbach

First we were shown profiles of the soil, showing the slates and degree of decomposition. L-R is Zeltinger Himmelreich (kingdom of heaven), Zeltinger Schlossberg (hill of the castle), Zeltinger Sonnenuhr (sundial).

so rocks

2014 S-O Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) 13%

Little is made in Australia, and I’m not terribly familiar with the variety, although I have been surprised at the depth of flavour in some wines from Alsace. S-O makes very little, matured in new 1000l litre oak. Round, mouth-filling flavours of white peach and smokiness (oak-derived?). Brisk to close. Great education on one of the Mosel’s “non-Rieslings”.

Drink now- 2020, score 89

Then we moved to a bracket of Rieslings. All were very pale.

so wines

2012 S-O Riesling Kabinett trocken 11.5%

Scents of cape gooseberry, green apple, stones, minerals, textured

Drink now – 2018, score 90

2012 S-O Riesling Schlossberg Spatlese trocken 13%

More aromatic, spices, melons, viscosity. Lovely drinking style

Drink now – 2019, score 92

2014 S-O Zeltinger Himmelreich Kabinett

Approx 17 gl/ residual sugar. Highly floral, red berries, green plum, gun-smoke, granny smith apple, plus some honey and lemon. Lots happening here!

Drink now- 2020, score 90

2014 S–O Riesling Kabinett 8.5%

Icing sugar. Musk, Ultra-light,  feathery. Where else can you get this delicious drinking style than in the Mosel? A lovely drink all-day wine

Drink now – 2018, score 90

2013 S-O Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr spatlese feinherb “Ur Alte reben” 12.5%

From vines >100 years old! Grapes described by Barbara Selbach as loose bunches of lentil size, and as ‘a treasure”. Immediately seems ripe, with passionfruit, honey, citrus, and serious acidity. A “masculine” wine, and very serious.

Drink now – 2025, score 92

2009 S-O Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese 8.5%

Ripe, and extremely playful, there are almost tropical arrays of pineapple here and other exotics. This wine just seems so balanced, natural and unforced, with warming, extensive finish. Completely delicious.

Drink now- 2025, score 94

2013 S-O Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese 8.5%

Light white honey plus ripe nectarines. More depth and concentration than the previous wine, Creamy, rich, fine, balanced, refined. Very extensive finish

Drink 2020-2030, score 93

Conclusions

We had the great good speculative fortune to taste uniformly excellent quality across the board. The wines are balanced and unforced, with the benchmark Mosel acidity and excellent VFM. There is a fanatical degree of care taken to preserve the various parcels but in a low-intervention manner. Barbara Selbach emphasised several times that winery work could not fix any problems that left the vineyard. Keep your eyes peeled especially for their parcels such as Anrecht, Schmitt and Rotlay!

Most of the Rieslings made even in the Mosel are “off-dry”, but Selbach-Oster takes a great deal of pride in their dry wines too, regarding them as more difficult to achieve finesse.

Finally, many of the wines – thankfully – are in screwcap, so no cork issues such as TCA or oxidation.

Chateau D’yquem

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d'yquem

Another tasting thanks to Sommeliers, Negociants, Stokehouse and D’yquem’s Sandrine Garbay (oenologist) and Jean-Phillipe Lemoine (Marketing).

D’yquem is its own legend, and not a wine I can readily afford, and seldom try. I have vivid memories of the 1989 tasted in May 2013, and the 1975 tasted in June 2014. This hints at their longevity. The property in Sauternes is large, planted with Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Its elevation means it is prone to morning fogs, and then botrytis. Yields are very, very low. There is a mix of soli types and typically there are 4-5 different picks over a 4-7 week time-frame. This means there are often 25 batches to base blending decisions on. Fermentation is with indigenous yeasts, and in 100% new, fine-grained, medium-toast barrel- Seguin Moreau and Taransaud are mainstays .No malo. Lots of declassification of batches (and some years no d’yquem is released – such as 2012). Light racking. Light fining, light filtering.

The sweet wines below had an “airiness” in common, a texture that was subtle, and extreme persistence. Enormous concentration and the oak contributes to complexity without being obvious. And with enough acidity to avoid any semblance of flabbiness. Richness without fatness. Thematically, consider Chateau d’yquem to be a first growth, and its pricing doesn’t seem so extravagant. But money is still a factor for most people. Easy to like, hard to describe, as their class is thoroughly embedded.

The “dry” wine “Y” (formerly Y’grec) is now made from early picked Sauvignon Blanc, with some just-botrytised Semillon added. These are also very age-worthy, but can go into a dull phase after 3-4 years and remain there for a few years, before re-emerging. (this pattern is similar to Mosel wines)

2013 “Y”

(only 1 pick, 75% Sauvignon blanc, 25% Semillon, 7 g/l rs). Very pale, pungent notes of pear, apple, botrytis spices and some attractive bubble-gum. Stone, grass, nettles also on the palate, finished with crisp acidity. Angular and attractive, but will be better with time

Drink 2020- 2030, score 92+

2000 “Y”

(2 picks, 9 g/l rs) Some more colour, with a less voluminous bouquet, in the apple and honey style, It has a round, soft palate with more grip and warmth than the 2013. Would be very comfortable with many different foods

Drink now-2025, score 94

2013 d’Yquem

(70% Semillon, 30% sauvignon blanc, 13.2%, 150 g/l rs). Very pale, baked apple, peach-skin, and all comes together on the sweeter-than expected palate, Airy, and just at the start of its life.

Drink 2020-2040, score 96+

2005 d’Yquem

(13.9%, 140 g/l rs) Described by Sandrine as a “classical year, easy”. 5 picks. Quinces, almost some mint and exotics. Feathered, fine texture, chewy and elegant, ultra-refined. Fresh, concentrated and relaxed. At a lovely stage already, but absolutely plenty of time and improvement ahead

Drink now-2035, score 97+

1996 d’yquem

(125 g/l rs). Described as a textbook year. 5 picks. Some VA showing om top of,tangerines and scorched barley sugar but there is faint bitterness and some warmth too. But density makes this still pretty, and still fresh.

Drink now – 2025, score 94

Grampians masterclass

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Grampians (Western Victoria), centred around Stawell and Ararat is less known for its Rieslings than its Shiraz, – probably overshadowed by the Rieslings from Henty (Seppelt Drumborg and Crawford River). However the Grampians can produce long-living, floral and mineral styles. Judicious use of low levels of residual sugar seems to help. The wines below are firmly in the “fruity” camp, not sweet.

Seppelt Great Western Riesling 2014

Varietal bath-salts, talc, mineral tang, zippy, delicious (14 g r/s) balanced, versatile

Drink now-2020, Score 92

Mt Langi Ghiran Langi Riesling 2010

Geisenheim clone of Riesling. Some bottle age-characters, honey and limes, but is on the austere side

Drink now- 2020, Score 88

Halls Gap Estate Riesling 2015

Obviously very youthful, residual sugar (8 g/l) is subdued by the beautifully judged.acidity, Fruit tingles. A producer new to me, although winemaker Duncan Buchanon is well known

Drink now- 2025, score 94

Best’s Great Western ‘Foudre ferment’ Riesling, 2014

Alsace-inspired, but thankfully at 11% not overblown as Alsace can be. Moderately soft, with some musk, citrus peel and florals, but the reward is the palate- slippery, slinky, textured, rounded.

Drink now- 2022, score 91

Jamsheed Garden Gully Riesling 2013

Skin contact, some barrel ferment. unfined, unfiltered, Looked a bit cloudy, and had some sour/bitter characters. Full on, very determined winemaking, very individual, but definitely didn’t appeal to me.

Not recommended

The Story Westgate Vineyard Marsanne Roussanne Viognier 2014

OK its not a Riesling, but was included in the bracket. There’s only a few rows of these varieties around in the district, and it’s a field blend. Bright, clear, tell-tale citrus and honeysuckle with a rounded palate. Comfortable rich wine, but I think some extra acidity would be my preference.

Drink now-2017, Score 86

 

Grampians shiraz is the “hero” wine; like many of the red wines grown in alluvial areas, it’s robust in flavours while being only medium bodied – likely benefitting from old vines, and restrained yields. The array of exotic spices and pepper integrated with natural acidity means the wines are long-lived, savoury and food-friendly. A move to whole bunches in the ferment means care has to be taken in techniques and judgement to avoid green characters and the technical composition including pH of finished wines.

2013 was a warm vintage with the added issue of varieties ripening together, complicating the typical vintage task of matching capacities of the right kind of vessel and picking best blocks at right times while crossing fingers and toes for the rest. All colours of wines tasted below were very youthful, with oak and tannins just beginning to really integrate. Alcohol levels were generally around 14%. Patience will be rewarded, as they are a pretty bracing now, with their best well ahead, as demonstrated with the bracket of wines following.

I feel that maybe it was not the best season to be brash on whole bunch inclusions.

Seppelt St. Peter’s Grampians Shiraz 2013

A riot of mixed spices matched with fine mocha-oak. Mix of black and red berries. Balanced but possibly lacking the usual concentration of this marque. Whole bunch used as “blend-in” material. Curiously disappointing after recalling the quality of the VFM Seppelt 2013 Chalambar Shiraz.

Drink 2018 – 2030, score 91

Bests Bin 0 Great Western Shiraz 2013

No “Thompson” made in 2013, so this wine has benefited from the “trickle-down”. A very health rude purple colour, there is upfront oak, but built in over savoury, clove-y, cocoa notes. I find the Bests Bin 0 often not especially varietal except via elimination, but this is a splendid wine regardless.

Drink 2016-2030, score 94

Jamsheed Garden Gully Vineyard Syrah 2013

80% whole bunch – high pH, high TA (a curious combination). I found the tannins here hard and green, Time may help, and I may be entirely wrong.

Drink 2015-2019, score 82

Halls Gap Estate Shiraz 2013

Seems, rawer and sweeter-fruited than other wines in the bracket. Tannins make their presence felt, but ultimately seems a bit straightforward – although keenly priced.

Drink 2016-2020, score 86

The Story Westgate Vineyard Grampians Shiraz 2013

Crisp, savoury, smooth, slinky, classy wine. There is some hardness in the tannins here too. I’m a fence-sitter on this one

Drink now-2020, score 89

Mt Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz 2013

Slightly medicinal bouquet (forgiveable) which dissipated over time, oak is prominent, acid is poking through and this wine looks entirely backward; hard to describe which means it is “right”, with all in place; best course is to revisit in a few months

Drink 2017 – 2027, score 91

Now we get to look at the time capsule; older wines as a pointer to how the 2013’s could develop. Most of these wines are lower alcohol.

Seppelt Great Western Hermitage 1971

A wine I have agonised over on previous occasions; is it a bit of TCA, or is it a combination of some hay/straw and some garlicky sulphides and varietal mushroom? It resuscitates on the palate as a fully mature, generously flavoured old wine with tremendous now-vinous fruit concentration. Remember its 44 years old, and deserves respect.

Drink now, Score 87

Bests Bin 0 Shiraz 1984

Chewy, some Ribena-like characters, and dark cherries. No rush!

Drink now-2020, score 86

Bests Bin 0 Shiraz 1998

Vibrant, beautiful medium bodied wine of length, charm and finesse. Astounding.

Drink now- 2025, Score 95

Mt Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz 1998

Also very alive, with some sweet toasty oak, a decent wine but wouldn’t place it as Victorian

Drink now – 2018, score 87

Mt Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz 2004

Colour seems to show its been in a deep freezer; ultra youthful. But it seems a bit “stretched”, and I cannot see improvement with further maturation.

Drink up 84

Jamsheed Shiraz 2006 (magnum)

Colour is a bright bomb; there is some slight reduction on the bouquet, but the wine is dense, and flavour packed. Very happy here, and future is extensive.

Drink now- 2022, Score 93

Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz 1986

Disgorged in last week or so, there are some unattractive decayed elements on the bouquet, and the degree of bubbliness is subdued; BUT the fruit power remaining on the palate is extra-ordinary; full ripe plums, and blackberries, a wine at peace with itself.

Drink now, score 90

One dry, one sweet

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2003 Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 12.5%

From Henty in western Victoria. Screwcap, so unmodified by any cork influence, the wine is very pale light straw in colour. Abundant lemon/citrus aromas absolutely vibrant acidity. Pristine, high class, indestructible, delightful. Flavour without fatness.

seppelt rr 2003

Drink anytime over the next 20 years, score 95

2001 Ch Filhot (sauternes)

Light bright straw, and immediately obviously from Sauternes (or Barsac). Pears, spices, citrus and some grip. Some botrytis dustiness. About balance not power. Fresh, lovely drinking. So it seemed likely that the wine was from a “lesser” vintage such as 2002 or 2004. When revealed, it made more sense. The fantastic year of 2001 had bolstered the usual Filhot style

Semillon dominant with some sauvignon Blanc and muscadelle, Filhot is not a property that comes to mind when looking for quality (although known VGV); this wine was a resounding success, and proved that I had unfairly maligned the Chateau.

Drink now – 2020; score 94

2 masked vintage ports

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1997 Hardy’s vintage port

Developed dark ruby colour, but awash with cocoa, chocolate, raisin, liquorice. Some almond too, tempting some people into the Portuguese camp. Bit it looked pretty traditional South Australian to me, brandy spirit completing the picture. Top up my glass please!

Drink now – 2025, Score 93

two vp's

1990 quinta do Vesuvio

Grubby rubber gloves. Sweet but supple palate. But the wine has seen better days.

Drink.now. Score <80

 

Morris (old premium) Rare Liqueur Muscat

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The colour is a deep, clear khaki/brown.

It pours slowly- like motor oil -into the glass. demonstrating its aged concentration. It smells of stewed raisins, and strong dark coffee. There is a streak of cleansing acidity that accompanies the mixed flavours of raisin, almond and mocha. The wine (17% a/v) dwells in the mouth, sticking to all parts.

This Rutherglen muscat falls into the “rare” classification. The price at cellar-door is a very respectable and fair $75, which means canny buyers can acquire the wine for around $60.

morris rare muscat

A bottle doesn’t seem to last long in my household.

This hedonistic world-class style deserves 94 points, while perhaps some judicious freshening with younger material could add to the aromatics.

1971 Chateau Reynella Vintage Port

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Served masked. Light khaki colour, with amber rim. Strong rancio and touches of vanilla and nougat. Well balanced, clean, sweet and stylish.

1971 reynella

Obviously a tawny style- except it wasn’t! Unclear what’s happened to the colour, as recent 1981 Reynella VPs have been inky black and display typically intense blackberry fruits verging on jammy. The 1971 is excellent but atypical; a much more mellow example than expected. Drink up. Score 90.