Two Mosel Rieslings were tasted blind; the exercise was “spot the difference”; keeping tasters on full alert. Similarities were present, but the difficult task was in defining where, what (and why).
The wines presented were
- 2007 Reinhold Haart Piesport Goldtropchen Riesling Auslese 7.8% 119 g/l, 7.7 acid, 94 points, drink to 2023
- 2007 Reinhold Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Auslese 7.4% 127 g/l, 8.3 acid, 95 points, drink to 2028
The wines had sufficient distinctiveness to warrant separate bottlings; the Goldtropchen displaying smoky, yellow peach, a touch of green plum and red apple, mineral and redcurrant, silky and delicious; Ohligsberg brighter, more linear, finer, slightly sweeter, with similar descriptors plus some yellow-skin apple and slightly greater persistence. The complex interplay between acidity and residual sugar came into play, with the Ohligsberg seeming much sweeter than the analytics indicate. Both had nervy acidic drive to balance the considerable residual sugar.
Piesport has had its reputation tarnished in the past- possibly due to excessive yield and inappropriate sites; Haart is one of the brigade determinedly correcting this legacy.
Two absolutely delicious, balanced, wines at a lovely stage in their development. The residual sugar is high for the Auslese category; with Ohligsberg shading the Goldtropchen for complexity and pleasure, but both wines offered delights that will continue into the future.
A fresh fruit platter was an ideal accompaniment.